Buying Beef, select that which is of a clear cherry-red color after a fresh cut has been for a few moments exposed to the air. The fat should be of a light straw color, and the meat marbled throughout with fat. If the beef is immature, the color of the lean part will be pale and dull, the bones small, and the fat very white. High-colored, coarse-grained beef, with the fat a deep yellow, should be rejected. In corn-fed beef the fat is yellowish, while that fattened on grasses is whiter. In cow-beef the fat is also whiter than in ox-beef. Inferior meat from old or ill-fed animals has a coarse, skinny fat and a dark red lean. Ox-beef is the sweetest and most juicy, and the most economical. When meat pressed by the finger rises up quickly, it is prime, but if the dent disappears slowly, or remains, it is inferior in quality. Any greenish tints about either fat or lean, or slipperiness of surface, indicates that the meat has been kept so long that putrefaction has bo-gun, and, consequently, is unfit for use, except by those persons who prefer what is known as a "high flavor." Tastes differ as to the choice cuts, and butchers cut meat differently. The tenderloin, which is the choicest piece, and is sometimes removed by itself, lies under the short ribs and close to the backbone, and is usually cut through with the porterhouse and sirloin stakes. Of these the porterhouse is generally preferred, the part nearest the thin bone being the sweetest. If the tenderloin is wanted, it may be secured by buying an edgebone steak, the remainder of which, after the removal of the tenderloin, is equal to the sirloin. The small porterhouse (502) steaks are the most economical, but in large steaks, the coarse and tough parts may be used for soup, or, after boiling, for hash, which, in spite of its bad repute, is really a very nice dish when well made. A round steak, when the leg is not cut down too far, is sweet and juicy, the objection being its toughness, to cancel which it may be chopped line, seasoned, and made into breakfast croquettes. There is no waste in it, and hence it is the most economical to buy. The interior portion of the round is the tenderest and best. Porterhouse is cheaper than sirloin, having less bone, Rump steak and round, if well pounded to make them tender, have the best flavor. The best beef for a la mode is the round; have the bone removed and trim, off all the gristle. For corned beef, the round is also the best. The roasting pieces are the sirloin and the ribs, the latter being most economical at the family table, the bones forming an excellent basis for soup, and the meat, when toned and rolled up (which should be done by the butcher), and roasted, being in good form for the carver, as it enables him to distribute equally the upper part with the fatter and more skinny portions. A roast served in this way, if cooked rare, may be cooked a second or even a third time. The best beef roast is (for three) about two and a half or three pounds of porterhouse. Two or three pounds is a great plenty for three. There are roasts and other meats equally good in the fore-quarter of beef, but the proportion of bone to meat is greater.