This section is from the book "The Complete Cook", by J. M. Sanderson. Also available from Amazon: The Complete Cook.
446. Among the principal salad herbs we may reckon lettuce, of which the white cos in summer, and in winter the brown Dutch cos and brown cos, are the best; endive, of which the curled leaf is preferred; corn-salad and water-cress, both of which are preferred when the leaves have a brownish cast; mustard and cress, or small salad-ing, of which a succession may be kept up through the spring months; celery, young, crisp, and well blanched. All or any of these may be united in the composition of a salad. Cucumbers, either sliced by themselves, or mixed with other articles. Radishes give a lively appearance, by way of garnish, to a salad, but are not themselves improved by dressing. Red-beet also is much in request for winter salads, especially mixed with endive. Young onions or escalions are liked by many people, but much disliked by others; therefore they should not be mixed in the bowl, but sent up on a small dish by themselves. Sorrel gives a pleasing acid taste; and pimpernel, or burnet, gives a flavour resembling that of cucumber. Dandelion, if well grown and well blanched with a tile or slate (in the same manner as endive), is equally good and wholesome.
Let the ingredients of the salad be well picked, and washed and dried; but do not add the dressing till just before eating, as it is apt to make the salad flabby. The most simple way of dressing a salad is, perhaps, the best; certainly the most wholesome; merely salt, oil, and vinegar, to taste; one table-spoonful of the best olive oil to three of vinegar, is a good proportion. For those who do not like oil, or when it is not at hand, the following may be used as a substitute: The gravy that has dropped from roasted meat, good sweet thick cream, a bit of fresh butter rubbed up with fine moist sugar, or just melted, without either flour or water; great care must be taken in thus melting the butter, or it will be apt to oil or curdle; it must be shaken one way only, and kept near the fire no longer than is necessary to dissolve the lumps - on no account suffered to boil. Eggs boiled for salads require ten or twelve minutes boiling, and should immediately be plunged into cold water.
In the more complicated preparation of a salad, great care must be taken that every additional ingredient is thoroughly well blended before proceeding to add another.
Prepare the dressings in the bowl, and add the herbs; after stirring them in, take care that all the various colours are displayed. The coral of a lobster or a crab makes a beautiful variety with a lettuce, onion, radish, beet, and white of egg. The following are the ordinary proportions, but various tastes will suggest variety: The yolks of two eggs rubbed very smooth with a very rich cream; if perfectly rubbed and quite cold, they will form a smooth paste without straining; a tea-spoonful each of thick mustard, salt, and powdered loaf-sugar, or a little cayenne instead of mustard, less than half of the mustard; when these are well rubbed in, add two table-spoonfuls of oil (or whichever of its substitutes is adopted), and then four spoonfuls of the best white wine vinegar; then lay the herbs lightly on.
Cucumbers are only to be pared and sliced, with slices of onion, which correct their crudity, and render them less unwholesome; the pickle for them consists of pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar.
 
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