Cut the fish into proper pieces; do not take off the scales; make a brine strong enough to bear an egg, in which boil the fish; it must be boiled in only just liquor enough to cover it; do not overboil it. When the fish is boiled, lay it slantingly to drain off all the liquor; when cold, pack it close in the kits, and fill them up with equal parts of the liquor the salmon was boiled in (having first well skimmed it), and best vinegar; let them rest for a day; fill up again, striking the sides of the kit with a cooper's adz, until the kit will receive no more, then head them down as close as possible.
This is in the finest condition when fresh. Some sprigs of fresh-gathered young fennel are the accompaniments.
The three indispensable marks of the goodness of pickled salmon are, 1st, The brightness of the scales, and their sticking fast to the skin; 2d!y, The firmness of the flesh; and, 3dly, Its fine, pale-red rose color. Without these it is not fit to eat, and was either stale before it was pickled, or has been kept too long after.
The above was given us as the actual practice of those who pickle it for the London market.
Pickled salmon warmed by steam, or in its pickle liquor, is a favorite dish at Newcastle.
Boil a little water, wine, lemon-peel, and sugar, together; then mix with a small quantity of the powder, previously rubbed smooth, in a little cold water; stir the whole well together, and boil for a few minutes.