This delicate little fish, when perfectly fresh, must not be washed, but wiped with a clean cloth, and dredged with flour, or brushed over with a feather, dipped into the yolk of an egg beaten, and rolled in a plate of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fried in boiling dripping, or fresh laid. They vary in size, and some will be done sooner than others. When of a clear yellow brown, take them out carefully, and lay them before the fire upon the back of a sieve to drain and keep hot. Dish them, heads and tails alternately; garnish with fried parsley. Sauce - melted butter. They may also be broiled.
Boil your smelts with a large glass of white wine, half a glass of water, two spoonfuls of oil, two slices of lemon, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of fennel. When sufficiently done, make a liaison with yolks of eggs, and shred chervil, and serve your fish with its own sauce.