In spring and autumn, the snails which are found in the vineyards are good to eat, for those who like them; and to clean them and make them easy to get out of the shell they must be dressed as follows : take a handful of charcoal ashes, and put it into a saucepan or kettle with some soft water, or water from a river; when it boils, throw in the snails, and leave them for a quarter of an hour. When you find the snails can easily be picked out of the shell, take them and place them in some tepid water to cleanse them; then again put them into fresh water, and let them boil for a minute or so, take them out, and let them drain. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter, with a bunch of parsley, chives, a clove of garlic, two cloves, thyme, a bay-leaf, and some mushrooms, then add the snails, being careful that they are well drained. Pass the whole over the fire, adding a little flour moistened with broth, a glass of white wine, salt, and pepper, and let it simmer till the snails are quite tender, and till the sauce is nearly dried up in the pan. Serve them up with a sauce made as follows: take the yolks of three eggs, beat them up with some cream, warm it, but do not let it boil, add a little white vinegar or verjuice, with a little nutmeg.*

* 'Life in Normandy,' vol. ii. p. 62.

Dijon Method Of Cooking Snails

Boil them in water with some thyme; take them out of their shells; place in the shells some fresh butter, kneaded with chopped parsley; replace the animal in its shell, and cover it with some more of the butter, etc. When required for eating, place them on an iron dish, or on one of porcelain. They are placed side by side, with the mouth of the shell upwards, in little holes in the iron or porcelain dish, which is made for the purpose, and they must be warmed till the butter melts. Thus prepared, snails sell at Dijon from five to ten centimes a piece.†