These are made of many things, but the principal ones are farce, rice, or potato for hot borders, and savoury cream, rice, or aspic for cold ones. The directions for farce borders have been given in the chapter on creams, mousses, etc. For a potato border; peel and boil the potatoes carefully, to have them as dry as possible, as when cooked they must be sieved through a wire sieve; now season with a little salt, and for three average-sized potatoes mix in 1 oz. butter, the yolk of one raw egg, and a dust of coralline pepper, or use a spoonful or two of milk instead of the egg; mix this all with a clean wooden spoon till it ceases to cling to the finger if touched, then turn it out on to a well floured paste board, and roll it out with your well floured hands into a straight roll, about 2in. across and just half as long again as the utmost breadth you wish your border to be. Cut this roll in half, as in Fig. 17, trimming off the ends diagonally, as at the dotted lines c c, then bend these two pieces into a round, or an oval, as in Fig. 18, smoothing over the join with a hot wet knife, and flattening the top (and, if liked, the sides, according to the shape you want your border) with the same knife.
Brush it over with beaten egg, and bake a light golden brown in the oven.
To dish it slip a palette knife between it and the tin, and slide it gently on to the dish, so as not to break it. If using one of the long narrow entree dishes, you leave this border quite straight, instead of rounding it. A hot rice border is made in two ways: either the rice is plainly cooked, and piled loosely round the dish, as for curry, or it is moulded. For this latter boil the rice in the usual way, till tender, but do not dry it; then press it tightly into a well buttered mould, cover it with a buttered paper, place another paper folded in the bain-marie pan, set the mould on this, and poach it in the bain-marie for half an hour or so, and then turn out. If to be used cold, cook some milk or stock in a well buttered pan (this prevents any risk of sticking), and when this is hot, but not boiling, put in the rice (allowing 2oz. of Carolina rice to the half pint of liquid), bring to the boil, then keep it at simmering point from thirty to forty-five minutes, till it has absorbed most, if not all, of the liquid, and is soft and plump, but not cooked to a pap.
It should be covered with a buttered paper, and the lid of the pan kept on whilst cooking, being careful that it does not catch.
When done, add to it a tea-spoonful of cold water, or milk, and pour at once into a border mould previously well rinsed in cold water, and leave it till cold before turning it out. This is all the better for being iced. Another way to make rice border, or a centre for any dish, is to put the rice on with cold water enough to cover it well, and blanch it, then rinse in cold water, and return it to the pan with more cold water, cover with a buttered paper, bring to the boil, and then simmer it very slowly in the oven, or at the side of the stove, for two and a half to three hours, adding a little more water now and again, as required. When cooked and quite dry, pound it till quite smooth, and work it to a ball with your hands dipped in cold water (to avoid its sticking), dry well on a clean cloth, and press it tightly into a well buttered plain mould, and weight it down firmly till perfectly cold, when it can be turned out and used, or cut to any desired shape. The first method given can also be used cold, but must be turned out whilst hot.