This is a sauce frequently used as a foundation for others, and in this case is made by frying together, till lightly coloured, two shallots with 4oz. minced lean ham, a bay leaf, and some parsley, moistening it all with a gill of good brown vinegar; let it cook till reduced to half, when it is added to three-quarters of a pint of brown sauce; skim well, and boil till reduced to half, when it is ready. If to half a pint of this you add a spoonful of minced pickled gherkins with a few drops of the pickling liquid belonging to them, bring it just to the boil, and at the last add a tiny pat of plain butter, you have Sauce aux Cornichons, excellent with fillets of beef, etc. If, again, you stir into half a pint of this poivrade one-third of a pint of light claret and a gill of strong stock, allowing it 'to reduce sharply a fourth part, skimming it carefully, and adding just at the last a teaspoonful of currant or rowan jelly and the juice of an orange, you produce Sauce cheureuil, most excellent with venison, roe deer, and mountain goat especially (from personal experience this may be recommended with ibex venison), and said to be a form of the original Sauce Robert, which many authorities assert to be the translation into French of the old English "roe-brewet," or roe deer sauce.
An ounce of anchovy butter, or of plain butter, with a squeeze of lemon juice, a few drops of essence of anchovy, and a good tablespoonful of capers, stirred into half a pint of this poivrade and simmered in it for a few minutes, produces a delicious caper sauce, excellent with any broiled or stewed meat, etc.
Put into a pan the grated rind of a nice lemon, five or six roughly crushed black peppercorns, five or six cloves, a bay leaf, a spray of thyme, and, if liked, a tiny blade of mace; dilute this with one-third of a pint of sherry or marsala, and simmer for ten minutes over a slow fire. Then add to this half a pint of well reduced brown sauce, a gill of strong stock or glaze, and bring it to the boil gently, skimming it well, and allowing it to reduce a little. Sieve it and leave in the bain-marie till wanted, when a pat of maitre d'hotel butter may be dissolved in it; or, failing this, a little plain butter, a squeeze of lemon juice, and some very finely minced parsley. Excellent with braised fillet of beef or boeuf au gratin.
Stalk and halve 31b. of good, well-coloured tomatoes, and place them in a largish saucepan with a bouquet of herbs, a small teaspoonful of salt, half a one of pepper, and a full gill of water; bring this gently to the boil, and simmer slowly for forty minutes, stirring it constantly and gently with a very clean, or new, wooden spoon, to prevent its catching; then rub it all through a wire sieve, and mix it with one-third of a pint of thin brown sauce, and let it cook together for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, stirring it constantly. If too thick, add a little more thin sauce; if too thin, boil up sharply to reduce it. This sauce may be made with canned tomatoes simply pulped through a sieve and cooked for twenty minutes with the brown sauce. A drop or two of carmine is permissible in this case, as the great beauty of this sauce is its rich colour, and for this canned tomatoes are not always sufficient. This will be found rather thicker than the ordinary tomato sauce, but in France it is almost invariably served as a sort of puree, like the puree Soubise, there used instead of our onion sauce.
It should taste very strongly of tomato, and, therefore, brown sauce is better with it than the highly spiced and flavoured espagnole, which would almost overpower the proper tomato taste.
This tomato sauce is often mixed with Portugaise and other sauces for use with braised and broiled beef; and, when cold, is mixed with mayonnaise sauce in equal parts, adding a dash of lemon juice or tarragon vinegar, when it becomes Sauce Tomate a la mayonnaise; or with equal parts of tartare sauce, with the addition of a little chopped green tarragon and a few drops of tarragon vinegar, when it is known as Sauce Maximilien. The derivatives from espagnole sauce are many, and include most of the more delicate and expensive brown sauces of the French cuisine.