This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Bone twelve squabs, previously singed and cleaned; season with salt and pepper. Cut into quarter-inch dice a quarter of a pound of peeled truffles, a quarter of a pound of fat pork, a quarter of a pound of fat livers, a quarter of a pound of lean ham and a quarter of a pound of pistachios; put all of these into a vessel and pour some Madeira wine over. Prepare a forcemeat with half a pound of chicken meat, half a pound of lean pork, both free of sinews, and a pound of fresh fat pork; run twice through the machine (Fig. 47), pound to a pulp and rub through a sieve (Fig. 97). Put this forcemeat in a vessel, add to it half a pound of liver forcemeat ( No. 81), and the chopped truffle peelings; mix the salpicon in with and divide it up into twelve equal parts. Lay one of these into each boned squab, inclose it neatly in the skin and lay each bird in an oval dome-shaped mold three and three-eighths inches long, two and three-eighths inches wide and one and three-quarters inches deep. Range these molds on a baking sheet, cover over with another one and cook in a slack oven for about forty-live minutes; after removing lay small boards on top of each, they to be a quarter of an inch thick, three and a quarter inches long and two and aquarter inches wide, of the same oval shape as the molds themselves.
Set these aside to cool with a hoard over and weights on top; then unmold, clean the molds properly and decorate them with fanciful cuts of truffles; cover with a light coat of jelly and another coat of white chandfrosd (No 596); place one of the ballotines in each, fill up with jelly and unmold again when cold; they are to be dressed on the platforms as explained later on. Place on a round dish, as shown in Fig. 452, a round-shaped stearin socle an inch and a half thick by seven and a half in diameter; fasten a slanting center support to the middle of this and on it have three metal uprights held firmly by the upraised edges of the dish. Each one of these uprights is provided with four platforms attached by movable hinges and beside has two sharp points near the edge so as to keep the ballotines in place. They are kept together by another small platform that is fastened to each upright by means of a small hook. On top lay a stearine vase garnished with cut vegetables to imitate flowers or other objects. Between each shelf at the base place a fine emptied tomato filled with seasoned macedoine (No. 2650) dressed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). Fill the basin of the dish with chopped jelly and clusters of truffle set at intervals, and around it set evenly cut croutons.
Place on the large socle or on another dish. Have a socle made the same as represented in Fig. 453; this can be of mutton and veal fat, partly mixed with virgin wax to produce more firmness, or else it can be made of stearine. When the pieces composing the socle, or properly speaking the body of the socle, such as the three griffons, the three shells and the stearine support, are modeled they are to be scraped the same as described in No. 56. Take a round board an inch and a half high and thirteen inches in diameter: cover it with a sheet of white paper and lay it on a large, round silver dish or tray: in the center arrange the princi pal parts of the socle; on the base of this socle place the three griffons and on these the three shells so they are supported by them, and the handles of the shells lie in the hollow parts of the socle intended to hold them firmly; these different parts are to be fastened with royal icing (No. 101); in the center place a stearine support an inch and a quarter high by five and a half inches in diameter; have the whole resting very straight and fastened together with royal icing ( No. 101). The base of the socle can be garnished between the griffons by laying on the board some cases of larks glazed over with chaud-froid or •• pains " of foies-gras or else croustades of rice filled with streaked minion fillets; on top of these lay two emptied mushrooms one and a half inches in diameter, stuffed with foies-gras, then fastened together to form balls, glazing them over with chaudfroid.
The shells are to be filled with glazed truffles or crescents of tongue covered with jelly, or else substitute shells of foies-gras removed with a spoon and sprinkled over with chopped jelly. The socle is now ready to receive either a ballotine Madison or a galantine of partridge a la Clementine (No. 2491) or any other cold piece. The advantage of using the decorated socles is that any dish can be placed on them to give a finer appearance, yet the dish can be simply laid on the table on top of a plain silver dish, if a plainer service be required.