This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
Same way as cepes, which see.
"As I looked around I observed a large open basket full of mushrooms of a peculiar kind quite unknown to me. I was taking stock of the contents of his basket, when the boy, noticing my curiosity, asked me to taste his merchandise. 'What do you call this?' I asked. 'Cocons,' answered the boy. I was not much the wiser, so I put further questions to the lad, who explained to me that these 'cocons' were young unopened oronges. 'How do you eat them in this country?' said I. 'Oh, it is very simple.' Then taking one of the cocons he wiped it well with a piece of paper, broke it in two, gave a hearty bite to one of the pieces, and handed me the other half, saying: 'Taste it sir; do as I do.' Without hesitation I followed his example. 'You are right,' said I to the young man, 'it is more than good, it is excellent.' And I bought the whole of the contents of his basket." (See Salads, Savoie).