This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
These are large or "flap" mushrooms, obtainable in cans put up in oil something after the manner of sardines. They have the mushroom-flavor strong and decided, which is only faint in the canned champignons. Cepes are valuable additions to entrees and sauces, but are also easily converted into a choice dish by draining from the oil and broiling or frying like an omelet.
Are prepared a la Bordelaise by peeling, washing and draining large mushrooms, steeping for an hour or two in oil, salt and pepper; broiling them, and using the same oil, with lemon juice and parsley, for sauce. "But what struck me the most was the enormous quantity of edible///ngithat were to be seen about the market at Aix les Bains. They were represented by samples in all their varieties of form, size and quality. The cepes (esculent Boletus), the ordinary mushrooms, the oronges, the morels, the roussillons, etc., were in abundance, presenting a curious aspect with their odd shapes and various colors. But above all I noticed that the cepes were in majority, their rich tones and glaring colors contrasting strongly with the whiteness of their flesh".