This section is from the book "Philadelphia Cook Book: A Manual Of Home Economies", by Sarah Tyson Heston Rorer. Also available from Amazon: Philadelphia Cook Book.
To make good Philadelphia ice cream, use only the best materials. Avoid gelatine, arrowroot, or any other thickening substance. Good, pure cream, ripe fruit, or the best canned in winter, and granulated sugar, make a perfect ice cream. Next, get a good freezer, one working with a crank, and double revolving dasher, making a triple motion.
Fruit and fruit flavorings should be added to the cream after the latter is frozen. The best ice cream is made by first scalding the cream and dissolving the sugar in it while hot. When raw cream is frozen, the flavoring is not so prominent, and the cream has a frozen, snowy taste, and is never perfectly smooth and velvety. Cheaper ice creams are usually made in this way, as they swell to double their original bulk.
Before turning the mixture into the freezing-can, see that the dasher is right side up, and the can properly adjusted; then pour in the mixture, put on the cover, fasten the crank, and give it a turn to see that all is right. Pound the ice fine in a coarse bag, and get the salt, which should be coarse or rock. A four-quart freezer will require ten pounds of ice and two quarts of salt. Now put in a layer of ice about three inches deep, then a layer of salt one inch deep, and continue this to the top of the can. Now turn the crank slowly and steadily until it goes pretty hard. If properly packed, it will take twenty to twenty-five minutes to freeze. It is not well to freeze too quickly. Water ices require a longer time than ice creams. When frozen, remove the crank, wipe the lid of the can, and take it off, being careful not to allow any salt to fall into the can; remove the dasher, and scrape it off; take a large, wooden spatula or mush stick, and scrape the cream from the sides of the can, and beat and work steadily for ten minutes; this makes the cream smooth. Now put the lid on the can, put a cork in the hole where the dasher was taken out, drain off the water from the tub, repack with salt and ice, cover the tub with a piece of carpet, and stand away in a cold place for one or two hours to ripen. When the cream is fresh, in tasting, you taste each ingredient separately, but after standing one or two hours they blend and form a pleasant whole. This is called ripening. When ready to serve, dip the can quickly in cold water and wipe it, then turn the cream out on a dish. If you wish to serve the cream in forms, after you are done workirg it with a wooden spatula, fill the mould or form with the cream, press it down with a spoon, being careful to fill every part of the mould. Bind the edge of the mould with a piece of letter paper, put on the lid and press it down. Dip a strip of muslin in melted butter and cover the joint. Pack the mould in salt and ice for one or two hours until wanted. If you have no freezer, an impromptu one may be made by using a tin pail for the can and a bucket or cask for the tub. In this case it will have to be stirred occasionally, while freezing, with a wooden spoon or flat stick, replacing the lid of the kettle after each stirring, and give the pail a rotary motion in the ice.
To freeze puddings, follow the same directions.