This section is from the book "Practical Cooking And Serving", by Janet McKenzie Hill. Also available from Amazon: Practical Cooking and Serving: A Complete Manual of How to Select, Prepare, and Serve Food [1919].
Trim away the outside leaves of three heads of celery, cut the roots to a point and trim off the tops of the stalks, leaving the heads six inches in length; wash and blanch ten minutes in boiling water, drain, cover with cold water, and wash carefully. Tie the heads in a bundle and put in a stewpan with a pint and a half of boiling stock or water, or half of each. Add one fourth cup of fat from the top of the stock, half a carrot, half an onion, a teaspoonful of salt and a few grains of cayenne; cover and let simmer an hour or until tender. Drain out the celery, strain the liquid, and remove the fat; use the liquid in making about a cup of brown sauce. Pour this over the celery. Garnish with cutlet-shaped pieces of bread fried in butter.
Cut the cleaned celery stalks in pieces an inch long, and let cook in boiling water to cover until tender. For three cups of pieces make a pint of white sauce, using the water in which the celery was cooked, with cream as the liquid. Turn into the shell of an Edam cheese, cover the top with half a cup of cracker crumbs, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and let brown in the oven. Serve a light scraping of cheese with each service of celery. For a more elaborate service, add parboiled oysters with the celery, and use the oyster liquor in making the sauce as a part of the liquid.

1 pint of cooked celery. 3/4 cup of grated cheese. 1 pint of white sauce. 3/4 cup of cracker crumbs. 1/3 cup of melted butter.
Have the celery cut in half-inch pieces before cooking. Use the water in which it was cooked with white stock and cream in making the sauce. Put alternate layers of celery and sauce in a buttered au gratin dish and sprinkle each layer with cheese. Cover the top with the cracker crumbs mixed with the melted butter and any cheese remaining. Set in the oven to brown the crumbs. Garnish with curled celery, celery leaves, and quarters of hard-boiled eggs.
 
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