This section is from the book "Practical Cooking And Serving", by Janet McKenzie Hill. Also available from Amazon: Practical Cooking and Serving: A Complete Manual of How to Select, Prepare, and Serve Food [1919].
In America a cup of tea is not the universal and everyday occurrence that it is in England and her dependencies. Originally, perhaps, climate had something to do with the introduction of this custom abroad. Then, too, the lateness of the foreign dinner hour made the habit almost a necessity. But now we, who are inclined to copy what we like, wherever it may be found, have taken this pleasing and informal form of hospitality for our own, and the five o'clock tea table has become a familiar object in our homes. Moreover, in addition to the delightful custom of offering a cup of tea to the chance caller of the late afternoon, we have instituted all sorts of "teas."
There are private and public teas, church and club teas, to introduce a débutante or welcome a guest of distinction. Then there are teas that take the form of an "at home" given on some particular and uniform day of each week of the month or season.
For all these, except the informal five o'clock function, which can hardly be classed a "function," invitations in some form are extended. When the tea takes the form of an "at home," a plain visiting card, with the receiving day engraved at the lower left hand corner, is sent to friends and acquaintances and also to strangers whose acquaintance is desired. When possible, besides the card of invitation, a verbal invitation is also given in the case of strangers, and takes the place sometimes of the card. The cards show that the teas are for Tuesdays during the season, the month of January, and for one Tuesday in January, respectively. The address may be added at discretion.
Mrs. James B -- Tuesdays.
Mrs. James B -- Tuesdays in January.
Mrs. James B -- Tuesday, January Fifth.
For the five o'clock tea as an everyday occurrence, or as given on some special day each week of the season, no formal display is made. It is simply a social hour snatched from a busy day, but the service needs be dainty and immaculate. The sandwiches are ethereal affairs, and the tea a choice brand. Polished silver and eggshell china are needful accessories. The butler, maid, or a member of the family, according to circumstances, separates the nest of tea tables, and places all but the outer one about the reception room, where they will best accommodate the guests. Upon these a plate of sandwiches or wafers may be placed, or they furnish a convenient receptacle for a cup or plate. The largest table is placed before the hostess. Upon this a tray holding the tea service is set. Hot water is brought on in the teakettle, which over the spirit lamp soon reaches the boiling point, and tea is made. The tea ball, or the newer teaspoon, on the same principle as the ball, is a convenience, where a single cup of tea is to be poured at a time; but, when several cups are to be served at once, the teapot, with its heat-confining cosy, is called into requisition. Sweets are occasionally served; but "good form," as well as hygienic considerations connected with the nearness of the dinner hour, restrict the refection to dry biscuit or wafer-like sandwiches. In absence of more than one assistant, guests wait on themselves and each other, the maid attending to the supply of hot water and removing the cups.
When cards are sent out to one's entire list of acquaintances for some special day, as Tuesday, January 5, the tea loses its home character and becomes a reception. Potted plants and cut flowers are in profusion, when means admit; daylight is excluded, and a table in the dining room is made attractive with flowers, lights (preferably candles), beautiful china, silver and glass. An orchestra of stringed instruments, screened from view and rendering selections that are but little more than audible, stimulate conversation, and give the finishing touch to a bright and charming form of entertainment. The menu for such an occasion includes tea, cocoa, bouillon, sandwiches, salads, ices, cakes, and bonbons. The guests enter the room without invitation. Waiters are in attendance, who serve or assist in serving the various kinds of dainties.
When cards are sent out for a series of teas, as for "Tuesdays in January," the affair is rather more formal than the "five o'clock," but much less formal than the reception. Music is dispensed with, unless it be vocal, or a few selections on the piano, toward the close of the entertainment. The refreshments are served in the dining room from a prettily decorated table. The tea service and the service for cocoa, presided over by friends of the hostess, occupy two sides of the table respectively. Guests enter the room without invitation, and are served with tea or cocoa, helping themselves to sandwiches, cakes, and bonbons, with which the table is kept supplied. A maid takes the soiled cups, and sometimes a second maid brings in glasses of frappé or sherbet. Church, club and other teas are copies or modifications of one of these three general styles of "tea."
 
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