For a roast of beef, the sirloin and tenderloin cuts are con-sidered the best. They are more expensive, and are no better than the best cuts of a rib roast: the sixth, seventh, and eighth ribs are the choicest cuts. The latter roasts are served to better advantage by requesting the butcher to remove the bones and roll the meat. Always have him send the bones also, as they are a valuable acquisition to the soup-pot. As the rolled rib roasts are shaved evenly off and across the top when carved (the roasts are to be cooked rare, of course), they present an equally good appearance for a second cooking. I have really served a roast a third time to good advantage, serving it the last time à la jardinière. Of course, in summer large cuts should not be purchased.

If the animal is young and large, and the meat is of clear, bright-red color, and the fat white, the meat is sure to be ten-der and juicy.

There is no better sauce for a good, juicy roast of beef than the simple juice of the meat. Horse-radish sauce may be served if the beef is not particularly good.

If a sauce is made by adding hot water, flour, pepper, and sait to the contents of the baking-pan after the beef is cooked, do not serve it with a half-inch depth of pure grease on top in the sauce-boat. This is as absurd, when it can be allowed to stand a moment and simply poured off, or taken off with a spoon, as to serve wet salt at table, which can easily be placed in the oven a few moments to dry, before sifting. Also, this kind of baking-pan sauce would not be so very objectionable, if cooks generally knew that it does not require a scientific education, nor a herculean effort, to strain it. through a gravy-strainer.

Baked Onions

(see page 201), placed around the beef as a garnish, complete the dish for a course at dinner.

Corned Beef To Serve Cold

If it is too salt, soak it for an hour in cold water, then put it over the fire, covered with fresh cold water, four or five cloves (for about six pounds of beef), and three table - spoonfuls of molasses. Boil it slowly. In an hour change the water, adding five more cloves and three more table-spoonfuls of molasses. In two hours more, press the beef, after removing the bones, into a basin rather small for it; then, turning it over, place a flat-iron on top. When entirely cold, the beef is to be sliced for lunch or tea.

Beefsteak Stewed

Never use a choice steak for a stew. Stewing is only a good way of cooking an inferior steak. The meat from a soup-bone would make a very good stew.

Put ripe tomatoes (peeled and cut) into a stew-pan; sprinkle over pepper and salt. Let them cook a little to make some juice; put in the pieces of beef, some little pieces of butter mixed with flour, two or three cloves, and no water. Let it stew until the meat is quite done. Then press the tomatoes through a sieve. Serve all on the same dish.

Beefsteak Stewed 89