Budding is the art of making a bud unite to the stem or branch (then called the stock) of another tree or shrub, independently from its parent. The object thus attained is a rapid multiplication of that parent; and in the case of seedlings, an earlier production of fruit than if the buds were left upon the parent. Delicate kinds are strengthened by being worked, as it is technically termed, upon more robust stocks, as when a tender vine is budded on the Syrian, and the double yellow rose upon the common China. Variegated roses often lose their distinctive marks if grown upon their own roots. Roses budded npon the common brier afford finer flowers than upon their own stems. Buds from seedling peaches and pears are earlier productive - and produce finer fruit - budded upon a robust stock; but buds of the pear inserted earlier than the close of August, produce branches and not blossoms. Where the bud comes in contact with the wood of the stock, a confused line is visible, between which line and the bark of the bud new wood is produced, having solely all the characteristics of the parent of the bud.

Buds of almost every species succeed with most certainty if inserted in shoots of the same year's growth: but the small walnut buds succeed best which are taken from the base of the annual shoots, where these join the year old wood of that from which the bud is taken. Buds are usually two years later than grafts in producing fruit, but then every bud will produce a new plant, but each graft has at least three upon it. Buds succeed more readily than grafts, and if a graft inserted in the spring has failed, a bud may succeed in the summer of the same year. Buds are ready for removal when their shield, or bark attached to them, separates readily from the wood. This is usually in July or August, and is intimated by the buds being well developed in the axillae of the present year's leaves. Scallop-budding may be done almost at any season. Buds should be taken from the middle of the shoot; those from its point are said to make wood too freely, and those from the base to be more un-excitable, and consequently less prompt to vegetate.

Stocks for budding may be much smaller than for grafting, even on the same year's shoot. Several buds may be inserted on older branches, and thus a good head be obtained at once. On stocks of long standing, scallop-budding is to be adopted. Just after rain, and when there is no violent wind, is a time to be preferred for budding. Whatever mode of budding is adopted, quickness in the operation is indispensable, for if the wound in the stock or that of the bud becomes dry, the budding will fail. The bark of the stock should be cut and raised first, and if possible on its north side. A piece of moist bass may be twisted over the wound whilst the United States. The annexed cut will convey a tolerably clear idea of the process; a is the stock or tree to be budded. Shield-budding and Scallop-budding: - "With the budding-knife make a horizontal cut across the rind, quite through to the firm wood at b; from the middle of this transverse cut make a slit downward perpendicularly, an inch or more long, going also quite through to the wood.

This done, proceed with all expedition to take off a bud, holding the cutting or scion in one hand with the thickest end outward, and with the knife in the other hand enter it about half an inch or more below a bud, cutting near halfway iuto the wood of the shoot, continuing it with one clean slanting cut about half an inch or more above the bud, so deep as to take off part of the wood along with it, the whole about an inch and a half long, represented by c; then directly with the thumb and finger, or point of the knife, slip off the woody part remaining to the bud; which done, observe whether the eye or gem of the bud remains perfect; if not, and a little hole appears, in that part it is imperfect or, as gardeners express it, the bud has lost its root and another must be prepared. If, however, it is found impracthe bud is preparing, and the moment this is done, it should be inserted, and the ligature put on forthwith.

Fig. 22.

There are twenty-three modes of budding described by M. Thouin, but only one - shield-budding, (Fig. 22) - is generally practised in Great Britain and ticable to remove this woody part without leaving a hole, let it remain, it is not absolutely objectionable. When the bud has been thus prepared, slip it down between the wood and bark to the bottom of the slit; the next operation is to cut off the top part of the shield, even with the horizontal first-made cut, in order to let it completely into its place, and to join exactly the upper edge of the shield with the transverse cut, that the descending sap may immediately enter the bark of the shield, and protrude granulated matter between it and the wood, so as to effect a living union. The parts are now to be immediately bound round with a ligament of fresh bass, previously soaked in water to render it pliable and tough, beginning a little below the bottom of the perpendicular slit, proceeding upwards closely round every part except just over the eye of the bud, and continuing it a little above the horizontal cut, not too tight, but just sufficient to keep the whole close, and exclude the air, sun, and wet, as represented at d.

If the stock and bud are both in fit condition, budding is usually performed with uniform success: it is a simple mechanical operation, and those accustomed to the work execute it with great rapidity; an active nursery-hand will readily insert 1000 buds in a day. In most of the New Jersey nurseries boys are employed for budding peaches, and by much practice become perfect adepts at it. The mode just described is called shield or T budding, from the shield-like form of the portion of bark containing the bud to be inserted, and the resemblance which the horizontal and perpendicular cuts made for its admission into the stock, bear to the two principal bars of the letter T.

"In selecting buds, those that are very young should be avoided; for in that case they are closely connected with the greenish substance composing the pith at the tender age of the shoot producing them; and on this substance they then doubtless too much depend for nourishment to be safely deprived of it.

"It is a sign that they are duly constituted when they begin to emit woody substance; and this will form a criterion of their fitness to shift for themselves.

"Buds taken from fruit-bearing trees on walls are apt to fall, owing to the prevalence of blossom-buds which will not produce shoots.

"Scallop-budding consists in paring a thin tongue-shaped section of bark from the side of the stock; and in taking a similar section or shield from the shoot of buds, in neither case removing the wood. The section or shield containing the bud, is then laid on the corresponding scallop in the stock; its upper edge exactly fitted as in shield-budding, and at least one of its edges as in whip-grafting - after this it is tied in the usual way. The advantages of this mode are, that it can be performed when the wood and bark do not separate freely; on trees having very stiff", thick, suberose bark, and at any season of the year. Its disadvantages are, that it requires longer time to perform the operation, and is less certain of success".

"Mr. Knight was accustomed on some occasions to employ two distinct ligatures to hold the bud of his peach trees in its place. One was first placed above the bud inserted, and upon the transverse section through the bark; the other, which had no further office than that of securing the bud, was employed in the usual way. As soon as the bud had attached itself, the ligature last applied was taken off, but the other was suffered to remain. The passage of the sap upwards was in consequence much obstructed, and buds inserted in June began to vegetate strongly in July. When these had afforded shoots about four inches long, the remaining ligature was taken off to permit the excess of sap to pass on, and the young shoots were nailed to the wall. Being there properly exposed to light, their wood ripened well and afforded blossoms in the succeeding spring".

In the first week of July the thorns should be removed from those places on the stocks intended for budding roses. If they be not taken away, the operation is rendered needlessly troublesome ; and it is best done then, as time is thus allowed for the bark's healing. The best time for budding the rose is towards the end of that month ; a dormant eye being employed just after a fall of rain, and when no strong dry wind is moving. An attention to these circumstances ensures that the sap is flowing freely, and avoids a rapid evaporation so often preventing success. Moist bass is usually employed for closing the wound of the stock, but it is far preferable to use worsted, and over this a coating of the grafting wax, made according to the following recipe: -

These must be melted slowly in an earthen pipkin, and applied whilst warm. Common diachylon sold in rolls by chemists answers as well as the above. A laurel leaf fastened at each end by a ligature round the stock, so as to arch over the bud, will complete the arrangement, and thus the sun's rays, the air, and wet, will be most effectually excluded, the admittance of any one of which are fatal to the union of the bud with the stock.

The great point is to apply the ligature firmly without cutting the bark, and to relax and re-tie it, when, after some time, the bark shall be found swelling a little over it. It is not desirable to remove the ligature finally, until, from the greenness and plumpness of the bud, and the slight swelling which takes place in it, evidence is had that the operation has succeeded.

Within a fortnight after the bud has been inserted, its fresh swelling aspect will intimate if it has united to the stock. At the end of the third week, if bass or worsted have been used as ligatures, these must be loosened, and in about ten days more removed. Very early in the spring following, the heads of the stocks must be removed by an oblique cut terminating about one-eighth of an inch above the shield of the bud, or six inches of the stock may be left for the iirst year, to which to fasten the shoot as a support.