The stocks to be used for grafting the Apple upon ought to be strong, vigorous, and healthy. They should be at least 1 1/2 inch or 2 inches in circumference, and those which are intended to be worked at standard height should at first be chosen from the seedling beds for their straight and strong habits of growth. They ought to be encouraged to grow erect by pinching the side shoots at every second and third eye, and by having their leaders trained in an upright direction to a stake. This is not necessary except in cases where the kinds to be worked are weak-growing and tender varieties, as the most of the varieties of the Apple will form standards if required, although grafted at 1 foot from the ground. In fact, I am not sure if 4 to 6 inches is not a better height to graft at than higher, as the more exalted the seat of union is between the scion and stock, the more chances there are that they may be broken, either by working amongst them or from the violence of the wind. The union is but very slight for some considerable time, so that the more secure the position we select for them, the greater will be our chances of success.

In the case of grafting at standard height, I would invariably recommend that the stem be made very secure to a strong stake, and as soon as the scion is long enough to be tied, let it also be made secure in a like manner. The stocks for the Apple ought to be treated in exactly the same way as recommended for the Pear, by root-pruning regularly every year except the one when the union is to be formed; and the reasons for this mode of procedure are exactly the same in both cases. In selecting a tree from which to obtain scions, let it be as healthy as possible, and free from canker; for although canker is a disease which is most generally brought on by surrounding circumstances, yet, nevertheless, I believe it to be in a great measure hereditary, and that it will take the greatest amount of cultural skill to keep a tree healthy which has been grafted from an unhealthy parent.

Cut down the stocks when the tree is dormant to within 2 or 3 inches of where the union is to be effected, and obtain also the grafts about the same time. They may be tied in small bundles and put in by "the heels" into the soil, until the grafting season comes round, which, according to position and climate, will be from the middle of March till the middle of April. As in the Pear, so in the Apple - the stock ought to be slightly, if possible, in advance of the scion, when a better and quicker union is effected than if they were exactly in the same stage of growth. If a stock were in a dormant state, and had a scion considerably in advance of it inserted upon it, the result would be death to the graft before the energies of the stock were brought to bear thereupon.

Whip-grafting is the method in most general use for young Apple-trees; and as we have detailed the operation in speaking of the Pear, we need not here repeat it again.

In treating of the Pear, I quite inadvertently neglected to speak of "crown-grafting." This is a mode of grafting in very general use for renewing, or rather refurnishing, of Apple and Pear trees where the varieties upon the stock become unproductive, through the influence of climate or from some other cause, or where it may be desirous to introduce a better variety. The scions are to be obtained at the usual time, and the stock cut back to the desired height during the dormant season. As a rule, such old stocks will in all probability be earlier ready for operating upon than the seedling plants. I would always be careful, however, not to spend time and trouble upon any old stock, unless I were sure that it was in a healthy condition about the roots. The same materials will be in demand at grafting-time as have been already recommended. Having all things ready, the operator takes his knife, and with it makes a slit longitudinally for 2 or 3 inches, after which he must gently raise the bark with the bone handle of a budding-knife - being as careful as possible not to hurt or lift the alburnum - until the opening be large enough to receive the scion.

The scion is prepared in exactly the same way as for whip-grafting, except that no tongue is made thereupon; it is then introduced into the place ready for its reception; the bark of the stock is tied firmly down upon it with mat, clay or wax is applied, as in other grafting, a layer of moss is tied over the whole, and the operation is finished. According to the size of the stock will be the number of the grafts inserted. As a rule, one scion for every 3 inches in circumference of the stock will be found sufficient. Mr Thomson, in the ' Gardener's Assistant,' recommends that, the stock being circular, the scion ought to be cut with a cavity or hollow, so as neatly to fit into or upon the stock - his reason being, "so that its inner bark might be in immediate contact with the layer of cambium from which the bark of the stock was raised." This, no doubt, is an admirable suggestion where the stock operated upon is 2 or 3 inches in diameter; but where the stock is much larger than this, it will be quite unnecessary, as the part of a circle described in the small space used for grafting will be so small that a scion cut flat will fit well enough without any such operation.

It may also be as well to here describe the mode of budding in most general use for the Apple and Pear. It sometimes will happen that in young trees blanks will occur where it would be desirable to have a branch or form a spur. In such a case the best plan to adopt will be to insert a bud.

The best time to perform this operation is about the end of July or beginning of August, although it may also be performed in spring, when the flow of sap is such as will allow of the wood to freely part with the bark of the bud. At this time of the year the bud to be used will be taken from the former year's growth. We do not, however, consider this nearly such a good time as about midsummer or a little after, as buds inserted at that time do not start into growth soon enough to enable them to perfect their wood before the season of rest. By inserting it at the proper time in summer, it will remain dormant all winter, after having effected a union, and will be ready in spring to start into growth with the rest of the tree.

There are various modes of budding which will answer for this purpose - viz., shield-budding, inverted budding, and square shield-budding. The former of these we prefer, and consider the best, but either or all of them will answer the purpose well enough. Shield-budding is done something after this manner: take a sharp budding-knife, and where the bud is to be placed make a cut across the branch to the depth of the bark, from 1/4 to 1/2 an inch in length, according to the size of the bud. From the centre of this cut make another cut running at right angles with it, and from 1 1/2 to 2 inches long, according as it may be desired. Assuming this operation is being performed in summer, a nice plump bud of this year's growth is selected and cut from its parent branch, with a piece of wood adhering thereunto. When cut, the wood is gently raised and cast away, nothing being left but the bud and bark; and this, if the operation has been properly done, will much resemble a round-pointed steel pen. The bud should stand well up upon the bark, say one-third of its length from the top. The bud being ready, take the bone handle of the knife, and with it gently raise as much of the bark on either side of the longitudinal cut as will admit the bud.

In this operation be careful not to hurt or destroy the alburnum, as much of the success of the operation depends upon this point. All things being ready, let the bud be gently introduced at the top of the cut, and as gently and easily as possible brought down to the bed made for its repose. This done, take a broad soft piece of mat (not Cuba), and commence to bind up the bud upon the stock as tightly and firmly as possible. It must be borne in mind that unless the portion of bark right under the bud is brought into close contact with the alburnum, the operation will prove a failure. The binding ought to be commenced at the bottom of the bud and carried upwards, as by doing so there is not so much chance of it being rubbed about upon the alburnum; and further, it is easier to make a firm and secure binding of the bud than if tied downwards. It is a good practice to leave a portion of the leaf stem along with the bud, as it is from it we obtain the first tokens of success. If in the course of a few weeks it drops off of its own accord, it is a sign of success; if on the other hand it withers and becomes dry, it is a sure token of death in the bud. As soon as it drops, or shortly after, the ties should be examined, and if too tight, they ought to be re-tied more loosely.

This may have to be done twice or thrice before the "rest" season, but in every case the mat should not be removed until the following spring, when the bud will push into growth.

Inarching is sometimes brought into requisition for the same purpose as I have recommended budding, and it has this advantage, that where a branch can be spared upon one part of a tree, and bent so as to be brought into contact with the trunk at the point where wanted, the vacancy will be more speedily filled up in this manner. Cut with a sharp knife a portion of the bark, and a little way down into the alburnum, where it is intended to form a new branch. The cut so made must be as nearly as possible the size of the branch to be inarched. Take the latter and cut into it after the same manner, making the cut about the same size; thereafter bring the face of the cuts into firm contact, and tie up with mat, the same as grafting. Clay may also be applied, which will facilitate the union. The best time to perform this operation is shortly after the rise of the sap. I never have performed this operation upon either Apples or Pears, but have done so with great success upon several other fruits, and I have every confidence that it is a good practice to fill up a blank speedily.

For fuller information upon this point I refer the reader to Lindley's ' Theory of Horticulture,' p. 323.

James M'Millan. [To be continued).