As in page 43 of the present volume of the 'Gardener' you were led to speak in terms of high approval of the Poinsettias exhibited at the Liverpool Chrysanthemum Show in November last, it may perhaps interest some of your readers to know my mode of treating this most indispensable winter-flowering plant. Probably no plant in cultivation is more ornamental during the winter months, when it is well grown: mingled with flowering and foliaged plants, it gives a rich bright hue of colour, not otherwise attainable in such a perfect degree at that particular season of the year.

In order to have large plants, I take those that have flowered the previous season, which up to the end of March or beginning of April have been kept rather dry, in a temperature of from 45° to 50°. Previous to starting them into growth, the plants are cut back to within 10 inches of the "collar;" and when brought into a higher and moister temperature they will soon break into three or four nice shoots. When the young growth has developed a few leaves, the plants are repotted, and in the act of doing this some of the old roots and soil are removed. The shift is made into a larger-sized pot, and the compost used made up of two-thirds light turfy loam, one-third peat and decayed cow-dung, together with a liberal sprinkling of silver sand and some small pieces of charcoal: such a soil as this I have always found to grow the Poin-settia well. Good drainage is of great importance to the wellbeing of the plants. A further shift is made into a 10 or 12 inch pot, and in these pots the plants are allowed to bloom. In making this shift, I do not nearly fill the pots to the rim, but allow plenty of space for top-dressing: this I have found a most material aid in the full development of the gorgeous-coloured bracts.

For top-dressing I use a soil richer than that employed in potting the plants. After each potting a slight increase of temperature is given. After the last potting, when the roots have taken hold of the soil, I take off the tops of some of the stronger shoots, so as to give more blooming wood, and at the same time throw increased strength (by the act of stopping) into the younger shoots. This gives from six to eight shoots to a plant. From the middle of August until the end of September, plenty of air is given to the plants to make them sturdy in growth; after that they are placed in a higher temperature, and treated occasionally to a dose of liquid manure, made of cow-dung, sheep's dung, and a little soot; and some guano is given occasionally, as a change. I always make a point (and I wish to impress its necessity on the cultivators of the Poinsettia) of administering the liquid manure of the same temperature as that prevailing in the house.

As soon as the plants show signs of colouring, I give more liquid manure and increase the temperature, and at the same time use the syringe freely. Under such a course of treatment as this I have obtained bracts measuring from 18 to 21 inches across, and with from five to seven heads on a plant. Who can withhold admiration from such grand objects, especially when there is found in combination fine and healthy foliage? I have been most successful in growing the plants dwarf for table decoration, having them in pots about 6 inches in diameter, with two or three bracts to a plant, measuring from 12 to 15 inches across, and with a fine leaf foliage to boot. These I have found to require more attention than large plants, to do them well. The height of both pot and plant averages some 12 inches only.

In commencing their culture, I make cuttings of the old stems in the month of April, cutting them up into pieces with three or four eyes, and allow them to lie a few days before inserting them in the cutting-pots; and when placed therein, I leave about two eyes above the surface of the soil. When rooted sufficiently, they are potted off into 4-inch pots, and when well established, and a rapid growth has set in, the leading shoot is taken out, and by this means about three shoots of equal development are obtained from which to form the plant. When they have made a few inches of growth, the shoots are tied down to stakes, and kept as near the glass as possible, so that both light and air can aid the production of robust, healthy foliage. When repotted into the blooming-pots, a compost similar in character to that used for the larger plants is allowed them; and as in the case of the specimens, space is left for top-dressing. These plants are greatly benefited by being placed in feeders, and by attention being paid to watering - both with water and liquid manure, which should be given in abundance.

At the same time the syringe is freely used overhead.

In cases where the cultivator has plenty of heat at his command, a supply of plants of various lengths may be had, by putting in cuttings from May till the end of July; the side-shoots of some plants, and the tops taken from the leading shoots of others, can be made use of to give cuttings, and these will be found to give at least a single head of bloom; and where there is no convenience for growing large plants, the following method will be found very useful: - Place the cuttings each in a thumb-pot, allowing them to become dry at the base, but not to be suffered to flag overhead, or the best leaves are lost, which is a matter of considerable importance. When rooted, put them off into 4-inch pots, and they will be found to make very useful plants for decorative purposes. By so obtaining a supply of plants of various growths you can supply the conservatory throughout the dull winter months. The conservatory, however, should be kept moderately warm, by way of giving the plants every encouragement.

As a garnishing for dessert, I have found the coloured bracts of the Poinsettia very useful indeed, especially when laid on a few Fern fronds round a dish of fruit. William Biggs.

Sandfield Park.