The Rose is always beautiful, at whatever season of the year it can be had in bloom, but especially so in the early spring months, when in the open air can only be found such things as the modest Aconite, or the Snowdrop in all its fair purity. Valuable at all times, it is especially so as a plant for the ornamentation of the greenhouse thus early in the season. With this short preface, I have now to narrate the method of the cultivation of the Rose in pots I have adopted for some time with much success. I have now a house of Roses - a house specially allotted to their growth, the plants in which began to break into vigorous growth at the commencement of the year, and now give the promise of a splendid bloom.

But first, as to the soil I use: Of loam, moderately weighty and rich in fibre, I take one-half; cow-manure, well decomposed, one-fourth; the remaining fourth being composed equally of leaf-mould, sand, and bone-meal. This is well mixed together, but not riddled; the fibrous loam will be quite small enough if the pieces are of the size of pigeons' eggs.

Second, as to pruning. In this case, as affecting the results produced by moderate or severe pruning, experience, combined with judicious watchfulness, is alone the best preceptor; for it is required that the cultivator be perfectly conversant with the habit and vigour of the plant to be operated on. Should it make weak growths, it will be requisite to cut away a good portion of them, and leave only those that show the possession of strength, which should be pruned back to about half their length, less or more, according to the vigour of the shoots. In the case of those varieties making robust growth, and having a vigorous constitution, the strongest shoots, especially in the case of Hybrid Perpetuals, should be well thinned out, and the remaining shoots pruned back to eight or ten buds.

Thirdly, as to potting. The practical gardener knows that this process is a most important one, and that it is sometimes very imperfectly performed. Many who are most scrupulous in regard to the nice distribution of the roots of a vine or tree when planting it, will yet ram the roots of another plant into a pot without any concern as to whether the plant will have a fair chance of growth allowed it or not. The cultivator should provide pots of different sizes to meet the requirements of the different-sized plants he will have, allowing an abundance of root-room, more especially for those that have large fibrous roots. Plenty of drainage should be provided - as much as 2 inches of broken pots for a pot of 7 inches in diameter, and rather more for pots of a larger size. Over this drainage a layer of moss should be laid, and over this a few of the largest lumps from the heap of soil prepared for potting. The plant to be potted being turned out of the pot it has hitherto occupied, the ball should be partially reduced, the roots examined, the dead roots cut away, as well as any long straggling points. I have always found that where these are headed back, a quantity of small fibrous roots or feeders is put out round the cut made by the knife, which proves of great help to the plants.

The ball being thus nicely trimmed, a handful of the compost should be spread over the rough surface of the turfy lumps placed above the drainage, and the roots at the bottom of the ball spread carefully over the soil, and so adding soil and arranging the roots till the ball is covered. The pot should then be filled to the rim, and the operation finished by pressing the soil together with the fingers till it forms a compact body.

Before removing the plants to a light and airy part of the greenhouse, or any other place in which they are to remain, they should be well watered so that the soil be quite saturated with moisture; and this will be found sufficient for their requirements till shoots begin to be formed, after which water, with which a little guano has been mixed, may be given them somewhat copiously, according to the requirements of the plants. On every available occasion the plants should be given sun and air without measure in fresh dry weather; in case of frosty weather, air must not be so plentifully given.

I have found the "Queen of Flowers," as the Rose is most appropriately named, to possess somewhat gluttonous capacities, and able to absorb strong stimulants, not only with impunity, but to her decided improvement; but it must be remembered that such should only be administered when good healthy growth is being made, on to the time when she shall complete the rich fulness of her marvellous beauty, which has distinguished the "Queen of Flowers " almost above every other flower. A. Kerr.

The Culture Of The Rose In Pots #1

At the close of my last communication I had reached that stage of my process of culture where the Roses gave a promise of a fine bloom. Since then, the fulness of the promise has been more than realised, and beautiful and massive blooms have rewarded my labours, crowning a healthy and vigorous foliage.

There are two things with which the cultivator has to grapple in the course of his treatment - viz., mildew and insects. The Rose, when grown under glass, is much more liable to the attacks of these, and much more likely to be injuriously affected by them, than when grown in the open air. In the course of one night I have observed mildew spread out into mealy patches on leaves that the day before were a polished green. Sulphur dusted over the parts affected will arrest its farther progress when applied in time; but should an application of this kind be neglected, if only for a day or two, one need not be surprised should every plant in the house become affected by it. Soot has been recommended as an effectual cure, but I cannot attest to its curative properties, never having tried it; and I object to its use on account of its being a rather unwelcome introduction to a house painted white, which I have a pride in keeping clean.

The Rose-maggot has also sorely affected my Roses this season, in some instances causing some of my most promising plants to be nearly bereft of flowers, as this pest drills its way into the heart of the buds, causing them to fall off. It is first discovered lodged in the folds of the half-expanded leaves, and, on close examination, these will be found to be apparently bound together in pairs, by means of the maggot eating its way through them, and so sewing them together, as it were, by means of a fine capillary thread, which passes from the maggot in a way something similar to that observed in the case of the spider. The maggot is an incessant worker, and pursues its avocation until the leaves it inhabits are riddled with holes.

Various are the antidotes recommended for the purpose of staying the ravages of this pest. The following I consider most effectual: - Take of powdered sulphur 1/2 lb.; of unslaked lime, finely pounded, 2 lb.; and tobacco liquor, formed by steeping some tobacco in hot water, J lb. First, thoroughly mix the lime and sulphur together, then add sufficient water to render the mixture rather thinner than paint; boil for an hour, then add the tobacco liquor when nearly cold, and paint the Roses over with it after being pruned, and before they start into growth. Should any maggots survive this, they must be picked off as soon as discovered, and on no account be allowed to gain a footing on the plants.

Green-fly is another pest, but soon overcome by an occasional fumigation. They are easily kept under, but if allowed to spread, will seriously affect the plants.