We need not here make any reference to the priming and training of espalier Pears, as the course to be pursued with them is exactly the same as for wall-trees. We may state, however, that the Quince is the best stock, and that we give the preference to horizontal training for this purpose. Espaliers are seldom more than 6 feet high, and, if a tree is planted every 16 feet, the whole space will be filled up as rapidly this way as by the fan - say, ten or twelve years - and will be more easily trained whether the wood or wire be erect or horizontal.

It often falls to the part of the gardener to have a lot of old trees placed in his hands, with instructions to try and renovate them. This is not an easy matter to accomplish, and ought never to be undertaken unless the trees are worth the labour and the undertaker is pretty sure of success; because, if he attempt and fail, he not only disappoints himself, but also his employer, making him rather sceptical about his abilities, and distrustful about any future suggestions he may make regarding any improvement about the place. Before coming to any definite conclusion regarding the practicability of renovating old fruit-trees, there are various things to consider. First, examine the tree all over, to see whether it is infested with scale, aphis, or any of the many insects which are its enemies, and also whether it be free from canker or not. If any or all of these, as is sometimes the case, abound, renounce at once the idea of doing anything with it, as such a tree will take years of toil and trouble before the evils are overcome, by which time a young tree would be into bearing and producing better fruit.

Secondly, should the tree have none of the evils above enumerated, the cultivator must not leap all at once to the conclusion that the tree is worth renovating, but should proceed to examine the roots, which are at once the mouth and true fountain of existence, and, having carefully dug right round the tree, ascertained its condition. If he find that the roots stretch downwards into the bad subsoil, and outwardly for 20 or 30 feet, exhibiting long "carroty" roots, without any fibrous rootlets, let him at once relinquish all thoughts about it, except to have it removed to the rubbish-heap. If, however, the tree should have become unproductive owing to a portion of its roots having permeated too deeply into the subsoil, while another portion appears healthy and good, with plenty of good young rootlets abounding within a radius of 10 feet of its base, and if, as I have already said, the trunk and branches are pretty free from their enemies, the tree may be operated upon with hopes of success. This operation may be performed any time from October till the end of March, but we prefer doing it pretty early. Let all the branches, if a wall-tree, be undone and tied up into little bundles, which may be loosely hung to the wall for convenience, as well as for safety.

Cut a trench right round, at a distance of 10 or 12 feet from the trunk, to whatever depth good roots are expected; thereafter take four-toothed steel forks, and commence carefully to shake the soil from among the roots into the trench, and, if possible, endeavour not to cut or hurt the bark in the operation. Go round and round regularly until all the roots are laid bare; and if, as I have indicated, there are roots penetrating the subsoil, let these be cut off with a sharp hatchet. The tree may now be removed out of its bed altogether and set to one side; thereafter proceed to remove whatever roots may have been left in the soil, as they might - nay, would - prove injurious if allowed to remain. If it can be had, I would recommend fresh soil to be procured for every tree handled in this way, and something of the quality we shall hereafter recommend when speaking of the formation of borders. Failing this, however, the next best shift will be to procure a quantity of soil from the best plot in the garden, replacing it with the soil from the Pear border.

If the border has not been concreted, or had something of the sort done for it, which will not be the case in such a one as I have described, it would be very advisable to procure a few rough flags, which may be laid at a depth of 2 1/2 feet from the surface, and if they can be built or cemented together, so much the better; and as every fruit-border ought to have a good drain running along the box, let these flags slope in its direction to carry off the damp. The soil may now be brought and put into its place. We premise, however, that it has been well incorporated with good rotten dung of some sort - old mushroom-dung, if not burned or destroyed, being the best - to the proportion of 1 to 10 at the very least, with an addition of lime and charcoal where it can be had. This mixture being placed in the hole to within a few inches of its level, let the tree now be made ready for replacing. Examine every root carefully, and wherever hurt in the operation of lifting, let it be removed back beyond the wound to the first good rootlet. Cut all the points back in the same way, and remove all those having a downward tendency.

This being done, place the tree in its position, spread the roots equally and in every direction, and proceed to fill in the soil round the trunk, and, as the operation proceeds, lift and shake the tree, so as to get the soil into the many crevices which are sure to abound near the neck. After this is done, begin to cover the roots towards the extremities, not throwing it in like filling a drain, as I have seen it done, but let the workman stand in such a position as, by one sweep of his hand, the soil from the shovel shall fall gently, and in such a way as to help to stretch the roots in an outward direction. After the soil is all on, a gentle press with the foot may be necessary, but if it is in the least degree wet, the less "tramping" the better. Cover the whole over with 5 or 6 inches of good stable-dung, and hang the bundles of branches to the wall, and the operation for the present is finished. In the course of three or four months, after the soil has had time to subside, and all danger of "hanging" is over, the tree may be permanently fixed upon the wall. If during the first summer the weather is dry, liberal waterings may from time to time be administered to much advantage.

Manure-water of no sort should, however, be given, as the tree stands in the very same position as an animal recovering from a protracted illness; and we are all aware that the medical practice is to bring the patient round by degrees, and then give him the best food to build up the system. Let us in like manner do the same to the vegetable kingdom. Let the plant or tree show good signs of recovering strength before many stimulants are provided for it. During the first year the tree will probably show but feeble health, but the second it ought to be pretty strong, when, if watering is necessary, manure-water may with much advantage be applied. The third year, in all probability, there may be a crop of fruit, and the tree, if properly attended to, will continue to be fruitful and healthy for many years to come. James M'Millan.

[To be continued).