THE remarks in our last chapter apply wholly to trees in the open garden or orchard. Further on we will deal with wall-trees. In the meantime we will confine our attention to the treatment of the trees which we have been treating of, after they have become established. Orchard-trees. - The first thing that will require attention is pruning. Standard trees on good deep soil require very little of it; and, generally speaking, the less they get of it the better. When healthy young trees on good soil are hard cut in, the result is that almost every bud left on the shoot is forced into growth. When trees are unduly repressed by pruning, their vigour is expended in numerous strong unfruitful shoots. When hedges are hard cut in, the result is a dense thick growth; and the same result follows in the case of fruit-trees similarly treated. Well-kept thorn-hedges seldom produce much blossom, while neglected hedges are generally covered with a profusion of bloom. Well-pruned trees behave in a way similar to a closely cut hedge, and trees which are let alone generally blossom and fruit as freely as neglected hedges. When a strong growth is cut back half-way, most of the buds which are left grow to be shoots.

When left untouched many of them become flower-buds, which develop ultimately into Apples instead of twigs. The lesson to be learnt from this is to let healthy trees, which are to be allowed full development, alone or almost so. Still, intelligent regulation of the branches will prove beneficial.

Some trees are very spare in habit, and if left to themselves would not become properly furnished. When such kinds are young, they ought to be pretty well cut back, just for the very purpose of making them push a greater profusion of shoots. Densely habited kinds, on the other hand, should never on any account be shortened, unless parts of the tree are bare of shoots. Such kinds should have a branch here and another there cut clean out altogether; and when any young shoots push from the place where such branches are cut, they should be rubbed off as soon as they appear. Care should always be taken to get a good foundation of branches from the very first.

For ordinary orchard-trees globe-formed heads are best, for most varieties assume that shape of themselves. As the trees get large, care should be taken to keep the branches thin, so that sun and air may have a chance to penetrate and assist fruit and wood to attain maturity. Wood which is unmatured is generally fruitless, and mature wood cannot be obtained unless sun and air get at every part of the trees. Some of the freer-fruiting varieties may produce both blossoms and fruit; but when the branches are crowded like a hedge, the fruit is sure to be inferior in quality and appearance, and so of less value; and although the number of fruits may be larger, the weight will not be greater, but may be the reverse. It is better, therefore, not to cut back the young wood, unless it is necessary in order to furnish the tree with branches; and remember, when thinning is necessary, to do it by cutting out the weakly branches. When two branches cross each other like an X, the worst-placed one should be removed, for the rubbing of the one against the other will spoil both, to say nothing at all of the awkward look of the thing.

Branches should be as nearly parallel as possible.

Although orchard-trees may be skilfully let alone, and as skilfully thinned when necessary, they may weary the cultivator waiting for the "returns." Where the soil is good and deep, more especially in cool northern localities, the trees may "go in for basket-wood; " and when trees grow too vigorously, the time for skilful letting alone has passed in favour of skilful interference. After three or four years have passed, and vigorous trees show no sign of producing fruit-buds, means should be taken to cause their formation. This is best done by careful lifting and replanting. Trees three or four years planted may be lifted and transplanted during the month of October with every safety; and the result will be that the year following plenty of flower-buds will form, and the growth be more moderate but of a better quality. If the operation is carefully done in the way we advised when speaking of planting them - all fibry roots saved and only strong ones cut back, and all laid out horizontally, - after one year's growth they will again be firmly established, and quite fit to make a proper growth and bear some fruit.

After this stage has been reached the trees will cause very little trouble, for the bearing of fruit will prevent the formation of too strong wood; and if it is not strong enough, mulchings of manure over the roots, and one soaking of manure-water during winter, will correct this tendency. Still, if the trees grow too strongly in after-years, root-lifting should be practised. Wholly lifting and transplanting is not quite safe in the case of large trees, but it is quite safe to lift one side one year and the other side the next year. In the case of trees on a thin soil and a bad subsoil, it is well to practise this root-lifting, especially if the bottom is damp. Trees which have sent their strongest roots straight down into cold wet soil seldom thrive, and the fruit is generally of a poor quality. During summer, the soil, especially when damp, is much colder than the air; and so the sap which is drawn up keeps the temperature of the tree lower than it might be, which is one of the reasons why Apples on such subsoils are poor.

The upper soil, on the other hand, is in autumn of a higher temperature than the atmosphere; and hence, when the sap is wholly drawn from the surface-soil, the temperature of the tree is kept up, which is one reason why the fruit on trees whose roots have been brought to the surface is generally fine. Another great advantage which follows root-lifting is, that the roots can be properly fed when necessary.

A great many orchards are laid out in grass. On really good soil this may be well enough, on inferior soil it is not. We think it far better to keep the surface-soil free of all growth except some light vegetables. The tree-roots should not be interfered with, but the interspaces may and should be cropped. Between the rows Gooseberries, Currants, or Rasps may be profitably grown for some years; and it will be found that on cultivated soil the trees will thin better than on grass land, while the operations we have hinted at can be more easily and satisfactorily performed.