Having noticed in the February number an article on the Pelargonium, I think the author's practice and mine somewhat differ; but I will leave that to be decided by those interested. This being one of our many attractive summer blooming plants, too much can not be said in its praise; no matter whether seen in the show-room or upon the greenhouse stage, it will be sure to gain the admiration of all lovers of Horticulture, not only for its flowering propensities, but for its varied colors and beautiful habit. There are some known as Fancy Pelargoniums, with much smaller flowers and foliage, and also of a much dwarfer habit, but none the less beautiful; in many cases they are preferred to the larger growing sorts, for, as a general thing, they bloom more freely. In Great Britain, where there is a greater demand for them, they are propagated at all seasons of the year, but as a general thing in the fall.

In this country, where so many things have to be done in a short space of time, the best and surest way of propagating and growing the Pelargonium in a limited time must be adopted. For my part, I would never use bottom heat, for there is too much trouble and care attached to it compared with the easy method I adopt. Although not a new one, (for I suppose it is well known to the practical gardener), yet for the benefit of amateurs and those interested I will repeat it. In the first place, we will suppose you to have some plants in bloom, or nearly so; as soon as they have done flowering, which will be in June or July, cut them down, leaving only two or three joints of this season's growth; this done, take the plants outside and lay them down on the side of the pot, so that they shall not receive any water whatever until they commence to break, which will be in a week or two; then set them up and water them. When the shoots have grown an inch or so, shake them well out, and re-pot them into much smaller pots than those which they were taken from, well drained, using rich sandy loam; put them upon a plank to keep the worms out of the pots, and keep them fully exposed; water them regularly, and they will soon fill the pots with roots, and make nice short-jointed wood.

When the shoots are two or three inches long, pinch them back and make them break again. The object is to get as much growth as possible in the fall, and likewise to keep them bushy, and form the base of handsome plants for next season. Before taking them into their winter quarters they will require to be shifted into a larger pot (the one that they will be intended to bloom in); well drain them, and cover the drainage with a little moss to keep it from getting choked up with the soil. Follow these directions, and depend upon it you will get specimen plants worthy of the name.

In arranging a stage of Pelargoniums, we require plants of different sizes; well, we will suppose the plants alluded to above to be the largest, and the ones we are going to propagate to be the smaller ones; select from the branches the softest and best shoots, cutting them into pieces with three or four joints; make a clean straight cut close under the joint to be inserted, also cutting off the leaf at that joint, leaving the others on. This done, prepare a small frame, such as is used for melons, with sifted soil; cover it with a quarter of an inch of sand, put the cuttings in two inches apart each way, and water them. They will not require any glass over them, but simply shaded with a piece of muslin in the daytime, taking it off at night: in two or three weeks, if attended to, they will be rooted, and fit for putting into small pots. Put them into a cold-frame, and keep close for eight or ten days; pinch them back and repot them before taking them into the greenhouse for the winter, where they should be kept as near the glass as possible. In growing Pelargoniums for exhibition, shape as well as quality is admired.

By tying a piece of twine around the pot close under the rim, and then tying the branches down, you do away with poking sticks and pegs into the pot, whereby the roots are injured ; and not only that, but you can get your plants low and bushy. When tying them down, the plants should be dry, for the branches will give more readily, and not be so liable to break. Let your own judgment guide you when you are stopping or pinching them back; get the rim of the pot well covered; the centre will take care of itself. When they are in bloom the strings can be taken away, so that you can show them without sticks or support of any kind. During the winter season they require frequent fumigating with tobacco to keep down green fly, using water very sparingly.

[Mr. Pry probably alludes to an article in the February number for 1859. We esteem his plan a much better one. He is hardly explicit enough on some points to satisfy amateurs; for instance, they will scarcely be able to judge at what time he prefers to put down cuttings for his small plants. If they select the early part of September, they can hardly go amiss. - Ed].