P. S. Bush, Covington, Ky., sent a letter to the Cincinnati Horticultural Society stating how he destroyed the curculio and saved his plums. He covered the ground under the trees with gravel screened in lime, and secured his crop. Subsequently, in another experiment, he scraped off the grass under the plum-trees with a sharp hoe, and covered the ground half an inch thick with marble dust, which compacted down to one fourth of an inch, making an impervious coating, impenetrable to worms and insects. He had no trouble with the curculio. The theory is that the instinct of the insect teaches it to avoid depositing its eggs where it is plain the larvae can not find cover to perfect itself. Hence it avoids trees where the surface of the ground beneath is hard and impervious.

[We are not a little surprised to see this item come again before a society so reputed for its intelligence as that of Cincinnati. It was an item of practice by Mr. Long-worth years since, and the experiment made in many sections; but while it appeared to hold good in small yards and gardens where there were no neighboring trees, as soon as it was attempted on trees scattered about in a large orchard, it failed as often as it proved successful. But old things must be again brought up from time to time.

Dahlias should have the tops cut away as soon as one good hard frost has destroyed their foliage - then leave the tubers in the ground for a week or so. Select a good, clear, dry day for digging, drying, and taking them to the cellar or green-house. A good way to keep dahlias is to pack them with potatoes in barrels, standing the barrels in the cellar, so that they absorb little or no moisture from the bottom. Dahlias, however, keep well when simply placed on a dry cellar bottom, or on boards. Light is objectionable, as, like all roots, a certain amount of vitality is lost by exposure thereto. If possible, keep them in the dark.