This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
It is generally believed by amateurs and others, that Moss, Provins, French, Damask, and Bourbon Roses, etc, are difficult to increase by cuttings; but by the following method, these sorts may be raised in abundance. Let a bed of well-fermented stable litter and leaves be made by the side of a north wall, and place a one or two-light frame on it so as to face the north. In this put about eight inches of leaf-mould that has been previously well soaked with water; then spread over all about three inches of sharp pit sand, and make the whole firm and level. The back part of a span -roofed pit, running east and west, with a wall in the centre, is also a suitable place for the purpose. It should be filled to within a few inches of the glass with the same kind of material. In selecting the cuttings, tolerably weak wood of the present year's growth should be taken, if it is sufficiently ripened at the base or has made one full-formed leaf. Strip the cuttings with the finger and thumb, and smooth the base, reserving the detached portion of the parent bark; cut them close above the first leaf, and insert them in the sand, but not so thick as that their leaves will overlap one another.
When this is finished, the bed should be watered, to settle the soil about them, and they should have plenty of air for the first four days; but it ought to be lessened by degrees, so as to gradually inure them to a confined atmosphere. As the preservation of their leaves in a healthy state is essential to success, the bed may be formed, and the cuttings put in on the same day, without waiting until the material becomes heated, as a thin covering of cellular tissue should be formed over the wounded end of the cutting before that takes place. In the third week the greater part will be rooted, and in the fourth they should be potted off into 60-sized pots, in a soil composed of leaf-mould and loam. They should be afterwards removed into a damp frame or pit, without any water being given to their roots; but they may be slightly syringed over their leaves, and when they become well rooted in the new soil, they may be hardened off and cither shifted into larger sized pots or planted out in a sheltered border, where they will make fine plants for next year.
By again levelling the surface of the beds, and making the cuttings to two eyes - always preserving one leaf, Tea-scented China, Noisette and Boursault Roses, etc., will root freely in it without any further preparation; but if a considerable quantity of the first named sorts arc required, cither the old beds should be taken down, and a little fresh fermented dung added, or a new one should be made, using the same sort of materials as are recommended above. The young wood should be taken before the blooms are expanded, and the cuttings prepared similar to what I have already described. The young shoots of what is called the second growth, may also be used for cuttings; they should be taken when two full-formed leaves are made, smoothed at the base, and cut down to the first leaf, then planted in a bed of the same construction as above. When they are rooted, they may be hardened off and allowed to remain in the bed until spring. Plenty of air in favorable weather should be admitted. In this way they will occupy less room than when placed in pots, and they will stand the winter better. Cuttings of Roses, like those of many other hard-wooded plants, are more certain of rooting when they are made short, especially if a healthy leaf is attached to them and kept there until they are rooted.
This, however, can never be accomplished if the soil in which they are placed is subjected to the alternate action of wet and drouth; but by placing wet leaf-mould between the dung and sand, an uninterrupted supply of moisture is obtained, and no water is required from the time the cuttings are put in till they are rooted in the pots. So suitable is this treatment, that when the bud at the axil of the leaf has been damaged, or otherwise abortive, those at the root are excited, and suckers are produced. All kinds of Roses will root freely under this treatment.
* From the Gardeners' Chronicle.
R. P. Deummond.
 
Continue to: