This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
Take Manetti stocks that have been growing two years or more in the same place, when they have made shoots three or four feet long, which will be about the first of August; they are then ready for budding. Bud them about two and a half or three feet above the ground. Be careful to cut all the buds off the Manetti stock for about six inches below where you insert the bud; this is to prevent suckers hereafter. When the buds have taken and commence to swell, and you are going over them to loosen the bass, is the time to layer the Manetti stock. The buds having been cut off the Manetti below the rose bud, you will then proceed to layer the stock in the usual way of layering, suiting your own fancy as to the height the stock should be; but I always found four inches of stock to be quite sufficient, so that, when they are transplanted finally, the whole of the Manetti will be below the surface of the ground, If they are budded and layered early in the season, they will strike roots finely by the fall, when they should be taken up and hilled in a cold frame till spring, then to be planted out. When treated in this way they make very superior plants.
This system is extensively practiced in the largest rose-growing establishment in western Pennsylvania. When you layer them, cut the top off the Manetti above the bud; this will encourage the bud to start; but if they are budded late in the season they will lay dormant till the following spring.
[Sulphur is generally regarded as a specific for mildew in its ordinary manifestations; it sometimes fails in consequence of its application being too long delayed, or in cases of great virulence, as was the fact with the oidium in Madeira, Portugal, and elsewhere. The Gishurst Compound we suppose to be chiefly composed of what is called whale oil soap and sulphur; hence its efficacy in destroying mildew. The testimony in its favor is pretty uniform, and so it is, too, in regard to its high price. Simple sulphur, applied as suggested by Hammock Park, is neither an expensive nor a very troublesome application. It is important, however, that the sulphur, or the exhalations from it, should come in contact with the disease, which usually first makes it appearance on the under side of the leaves; failure to reap the full benefit of sulphur may sometimes be traced to overlooking this fact. The method of budding on the Manetti stock, described by Hammock Park, is a very expeditious one, and will be welcomed by such of our readers as grow Roses in that way. We have never been partial to budded Roses of any kind, and the winter of 1860-1 has brought thousands to our way of thinking. We do not wish to be understood as condemning them, but as preferring Roses on their own roots.
We should like Hammock Park to give our readers some equally easy mode of propagating Roses from cuttings. - Ed.