This section is from the book "Questions And Answers On The Practice And Theory Of Sanitary Plumbing", by R. M. Starbuck. Also available from Amazon: Questions and Answers on the Practice and Theory of Sanitary Plumbing.
With a mixture of the following proportions: 5 lbs. iron filings, 1 oz. salammoniac, 1 oz. sulphur; mix first dry, and thin with water.
Plug the ends and fill the pipe with rosin. It can then be bent. If the pipe is large, it is a good plan to bore a hole in an upright timber, so that the pipe will fit loosely, and bend the pipe through this hole. Shave off the sharp corners of the hole so that it will not leave marks on the pipe. Having gotten the pipe in the desired shape, hold it over a slow fire and run the rosin out.
With an ordinary copper boiler, by attaching the city water, it can be forced into its original shape. Never hammer a boiler until this has been tried. If not successful, then the bottom should be taken out, and the cylinder forced into shape on a mandril.
First have the pipe thoroughly dry, and then paint it over with some quick drying gold size. Then mix with white lead sufficient powdered red lead to stiffen it. Place a layer of this mixture around the pipe, three-eights to one-half inch in thickness, and with some good strong cotton cloth, which has been painted with the gold size, neatly bind the red lead to the pipe, then bind it securely with twine, commencing at the end and winding closely toward the center.
By inserting a narrow strip of tin between the die and pipe on one side. This will force the opposite side of the die to cut a little deeper.
On new work, a little ether is usually forced through the system by aid of the force pump, and the leaks detected from the odor of the ether, an ordinary gauge having been previously attached and a pressure of from five to eight pounds been reached. On old work, where there is only the gas present, the first test of a suspected joint would be with a match or candle. If not successful in locating the leak, then cover the joints with a thick lather made from shaving soap. A very fine leak will soon cause a bubble to form which locates the leak. Shaving soap is better than common soap on account of its strength.
It is always well to have in one's kit a number of sizes of brass pipe, sawed in halves, lengthwise, and about two and one-half inches in length. On the inside of these rub a little rosin. They can then be put around the nickle pipe and clasped with a wrench, without defacing the polished work. If a vise is handy, two hard wood blocks having a groove in each to fit the pipe, can be used, rosin being first rubbed into the groove. These blocks should be eight or ten inches long.
Although not a very desirable joint there are occasions when it has to be adopted. Select a good piece of cotton cloth about three inches in width, and after a sizeable joint of putty has been formed around the pipe, wrap carefully with the strip of cloth, and with a piece of twine securely fasten both edges of the joint. Now, having the putty confined so that it cannot squeeze out of either end, it can be wound as tightly as desired, and can be left to harden.
 
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