This section is from the book "Questions And Answers On The Practice And Theory Of Sanitary Plumbing", by R. M. Starbuck. Also available from Amazon: Questions and Answers on the Practice and Theory of Sanitary Plumbing.
Only when the ram can be located below the supply.
It is not, and is used generally only in places where the waste of water is of no moment.
On the amount of fall between the source of supply and the weighted valve of the ram.
A fall of only sixteen or eighteen inches is sufficient to operate the ram, but a fall of five to ten feet is preferable.
The delivery pipe is usually of only half the diameter of the drive pipe.
The ram, when properly set, will deliver about one-seventh of the water issuing from the source of supply, to an elevation five times as great as the distance from the source to the valve, or one-fourteenth to an elevation ten times this distance, and so on, in the same proportion.
The lower end should be stopped to prevent sand from entering, and about four inches from the end holes should be drilled. In some cases a return bend is placed at the bottom of the suction pipe, which gives a downward instead of an upward suction at first. What is termed a mushroom strainer is also sometimes used.
The first thing in repairing a pump is to see that the lower box holds water. When this is accomplished, if the pump runs down, it is evident that there is a leak somewhere in the pipe, and we must proceed to find it. By placing the ear to the pipe, after the water has been drawn into the pump, a hissing sound will be heard if there is a leak, which should be traced up. It sounds plainer as the leak is approached. A good plan is to clasp the pipe in the hand. When the leak is covered, the hissing stops. When iron pipe is used, it is much harder to locate the leak on account of the sound being telephoned through the pipe for a long distance, the sound being nearly as distinct at one point as another. With iron pipe, rub soap around each joint until the sound stops. The pump and pipe must always be charged to produce this hissing sound, which is caused by the air rushing in to fill the vacuum formed by the water in dropping. By looking into the top of the pump, bubbles will be seen to rise when pumping, if there is a leak. Having gotten the lower box and pipe tight, if the pump throws a small stream, then look to the upper box, for it is probably worn so that it is too loose, and the water escapes past it. If the brake flies back forcibly, it shows that the pipe is stopped, or that the water cannot be raised so far.
Fasten the point to a short piece of pipe provided at one end with a cap firmly screwed on. After boring with the auger to a convenient depth, place the point in the hole. Now let the helper rest a piece of timber on the cap to take the blows of the sledge used in driving down the pipe. When the pipe has settled into the ground sufficiently, screw on another short length of pipe. The pipe should be often turned with the tongs, to keep it loose in the ground. As water is reached, the pipe generally drives more easily for a short distance, when the driving becomes difficult again, because of the hard pan which generally lies below each vein of water. When this is reached, drop a plumb bob into the pipe and note the depth of water by the moisture on the string. If the vein of water is not of sufficient depth, then drive down to the next vein, which is liable to be some ten feet lower, although this depth would differ in different localities. When sufficient water has been found, attach an old pump to the pipe, and pump out the sand until sufficient clean gravel has collected about the point to act as a strainer and protection for the point. The iron pump with a round seat for the lower valve is the best pump for this use, because there is less opportunity for sand to lodge in the valve.
 
Continue to: