The jaw (1, Fig. 14) is a piece of 2 by 6. Mark it out as shown in Fig. 17, with the lower end drawn so as to be sawed off on a diagonal, the left-hand edge so as to be notched to receive the sliding-strip J, and the top so as to be beveled on the face side. The sliding-strip J is a guide for the lower end of the vise jaw. With a peg to fit in its holes, this strip provides a means for keeping the bottom of the jaw directly under the top. Without this attachment, it would be impossible to clamp work in the vise, because
Fig. 12. - Detail of End Frame the jaw would push in at the bottom, and could not be made to set squarely against your work. The holes in the sliding-strip should be 3/8 inch in diameter, and they should be staggered as shown, with their centers placed 1 1/2 inches
Fig. 13. - Detail of Completed Framework, Showing Bracing apart. The sleeve through which the sliding-strip slides (Figs. 10, ii, and 14) is made by nailing one end of a strip K to rail C, and the other end to a block L of the same thickness as C, fastened 3 1/4 inches above rail C. Suspend a peg (M, Fig. 14) from block L by a cord tied to screw-eyes screwed into the end of the peg and block L.
To Attach the Bench-Screw, slip sliding-strip J through its sleeve and push the jaw up against apron E; then, 7 inches below the top of the jaw, mark the center for the hole through which the bench-screw is to turn, and cut a hole at this point through the jaw, through the apron and through the bench leg. This hole should be 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
Fig. 14. - Completed Bench-Vise
Fig. 15. - Iron Bench-Screw
Fig. 16. - Threaded Iron Socket and Wooden Block in which it is Mounted
Fig. 17. - Detail of Vise Jaw and Sliding-Strip
If you haven't an expansive-bit which can be set to cut a hole of this diameter, bore several small holes, and with a chisel connect them, making one large hole. The iron socket which comes with the bench-screw (N, Fig. 16) must be fastened to the back of the bench leg. If the threads on the bench-screw run close to the handle end as shown in Fig. 15, the hole in the bench-leg can be enlarged and the socket set into the hole, but the threads upon some bench-screws stop 3 inches from the handle end, and, if you get one of these, it will be necessary to set the iron socket into a wooden block (0, Fig. 16), and spike this block to the back of the leg (Fig. 11); if this is not done, the vise jaw cannot be screwed up close to the face of the jaw, and the vise cannot be closed. Screw the iron collar on the handle end of the bench-screw to the face of the jaw.
The wooden handle that comes with a bench-screw (Fig. 15) is not of much account, because the constant sliding through the iron sleeve, from end to end, loosens the ends, making it necessary to glue them on every now and then. A better handle is a piece of broom-handle 16 inches long with a large screw-eye screwed into each end, like that shown in Fig. 14. The author uses a handle of this form on his vise, as you will see by Fig. 8.
Peg Supports for Work. Upon the front of the bench apron E, two rows of holes about 3/4 inch in diameter should be bored, as shown in Fig. 10, and a peg (P, Fig. 10) should be whittled to fit each row. Suspend the pegs by cords, so they will always be within reach when wanted. The purpose of these pegs is to support the right-hand end of long pieces of work; they can be adjusted to the holes which will suit the width of the piece of work placed in the vise.
A Bench-Stop on the top of the bench is very useful to push the end of work against when you cannot or do not wish to place the work in the vise. A block of wood screwed to the bench-top will do (H, Figs. 3 and 4), but an adjustable iron stop can be purchased at the hardware store which will be handier.
You will get some ideas for the arrangement of Tool-Cabinets and Tool-Racks from the photograph of the author's shop (Fig. 8), but, as stated at the beginning of this chapter, you are referred to The Boy Craftsman, Handicraft for Handy Boys, and The Handy Boy for instructions for making them.