Fig. 17. - Types of Panel Work and Methods of Construction.

The top rail (d) is usually 1" wider than the stiles, to allow it to show the same width as the stile when the cap finish, similar to p, r, of Fig. 9, is in its place. One edge of the top rail and of the bottom rail (/) should be grooved, and their ends fitted to the stile. The bottom rail should be of a width to allow it to show at least \" more than the width of the stiles when the base and the base molding are in place. The middle rail (e) should be somewhat narrower than the stiles, and grooved upon both edges, and fitted to receive the muntins (g) which should be the same width as the middle rails. The ends of the middle rails should be fitted to the stiles; the ends of the muntins should be fitted to the middle rails and also grooved to receive the panels.

Six different ways of constructing panel work are indicated. At H is shown the form of construction known as "tongued and grooved"; it should be used only in places where it will be firmly fastened, or where it will be required to do no more than to support its own weight. The thickness of the panel may equal the width of the groove, or it may be thicker, in which case it is rebated to allow it to enter the groove as shown at J. This is much better, as the panel, being thicker, is not so apt to be split by a blow.

The ends of the rails and muntins are grooved 9/16" in this groove is placed a tongue, 1" long, made to fit closely, but not so tightly as to risk splitting the wood. The grain of the tongue should be parallel with the rails (o), so that when it is in place, it will be at right angles with the stile (p). This is usually done by planing a board to the thickness of the width of the groove, and cutting pieces \" long off it as they are needed. If the work is well made of dry material, and not roughly used, it will give very good satisfaction for a cheap grade of work.

J illustrates the panel grooved and tenoned construction, between which and H there is much similarity. It makes a better and stronger piece of work, and considering all things, it costs about the same. This form of construction is often reenforced by doweling the joints between the rails and stiles, and sometimes the joints of the muntins and rails are treated in the same way. The dowel holes must be bored before the grooves are made or there will be no center for the dowel bit.

In the grooved and tenoned method (K) the groove (1-2) is cut with a circular grooving saw about 1 1/4" deep, the shape of the saw causing the curved shape indicated by the dotted lines. The tenon (3) is then fitted. The groove for the panels should be only 9/16" deep.

The mortised and tenoned joint, shown at L, is generally the method by which the best class of work is constructed. Instead of making the mortised joint, a doweled joint may be used. In this case there should be at least two dowels in each joint, which should be so located as to avoid the grooves which receive the panels. If a doweled joint is used, the holes must be bored before the pieces are grooved, or there will be no center for the dowel bit. If a mortised and tenoned joint is used, and the tenon coincides with the groove, there will not be so much work in digging out the mortise after the groove has been made. The doweled joint is often used, and with satisfaction, in shops which have neither mortising nor tenoning machines.

At M is shown rebated panel work; this type is much used in places in which the work is built in because, if the tenon (3) is omitted, it can be built one piece at a time, and can be nailed through the edges so that no nailheads will show. This method is sometimes applied by building the frame of square edged pieces, and furring out a distance equal to the back of the rebate (4). The thickness of a lath is about right for the furring. This form of construction is especially valuable in places where it is necessary that glass or wood panels should be put in place after the work is set up by using the back side of the pieces shown in the illustration as the face of the panel work. The panels may be put in from the back.

At N is shown the coped panel work. This form of panel work is extensively used in the manufacture of furniture of all descriptions, and is abundantly strong for ordinary purposes. If good material is used, and the work is well done, a very handsome piece of work will result, as the effect of a molded panel will be obtained without the work of cutting in moldings, and there will be no nail holes visible.

(B.) Figure 18 shows the section of a paneled dado, with the different members used in setting it in place. The laps of the outside corners, around a chimney for instance, should be upon the side where they will be the least conspicuous; upon the best work these outside corners are mitered.

Panel work should be set directly upon the studding; the spaces between the studding may be back plastered for either deadening or warmth, and the wall above plastered to a ground of the same thickness of the dado, as shown in Fig. 18, at a. One point of superiority of this method over nailing the dado upon the plastering, as is frequently done, is that the finish may be put on and the moldings stopped against the door casings much more easily and in a more workmanlike manner than if some of the moldings of the cap or base projected beyond the door casings, in which event they should be stopped by being returned upon themselves; that is, the contour of the face of the molding should be cut across the end, which will look as though the molding were mitered; small moldings should not be mitered if they return only their thickness, as the short grain of the return is apt to break off. Large moldings may be mitered when a return is necessary.