Setting Door Jambs. If the studs about interior door openings have been carefully selected for straightness and properly set or plumbed, the setting of the door jamb should be an easy matter, If this work has not been properly done, considerable ingenuity will be required oftentimes to get the frame set so that its edges are out of wind and the frame plumb. If a jamb should not be set plumb and out of wind, the operation of making a door fit its stops properly is a most trying one and the result usually unsatisfactory. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the necessity for proper placing of studs and jambs. (1) Saw off the head lugs just enough to allow the frame to be placed in the opening. (2) Cut a spacing stick of a length sufficient to reach from the floor to the under surface of the head jamb when that member is in its proper place. (3) Place the head jamb at one of its ends upon this stick and tack the jamb to the stud lightly. (4) Level the head jamb and lightly tack the second jamb, inserting wedging blocks or shingle points between the jamb and stud. A spread stick cut to hold the jambs apart properly at the base is desirable. (5) Lay a piece of finish floor against the face of each jamb and scribe along the top of this to indicate where the jambs must be cut off to fit the finish floor when it is placed. It is taken for granted that the finish floor is to be laid last. If a finish floor is not to be used, or if it is to be placed before the wall trim, the head jamb will be leveled but not located as to height, the dividers being used to scribe the feet, being set so that the proper amount will be cut off to allow the jamb to rest at the right height when cut to the scribed lines. (6) Remove the jamb and saw to the scribed lines. (7) Replace the frame and tack it at one side after plumbing it both on its face side and face edge. See that the jamb is at the right height by inserting the blocks offflooring used in scribing to length. (8) Tack the second side-jamb close to the head. (9) Sight across the edges of these jambs and adjust the loose jamb until the frame is out of wind. Plumb its face, blocking the back. Shingles placed point to point provide easy blocking where the space is not too large. A straight-edge placed against the face of a jamb will indicate whether it has been sprung in the blocking or wedging between jamb and stud.

Fig. 129. Setting Dividers at Meeting Rails

Fig. 129. Setting Dividers at Meeting Rails.

Fig. 130. Scribing Bottom of Lower Sash

Fig. 130. Scribing Bottom of Lower Sash.