Tools Used

Jack plane, marking gauge, try-square, and 3/4-in. or 7/8-in. or 1-in. firmer chisel.

Timber Required

Yellow deal 1 ft. by 2 1/4 ins. by 7/8 in.

The drawing for this exercise should only be the plan, elevation, and end elevation, to scale 1/2 No isometric projection need be made in this case.

Plan.

Fig. 113.

Plane up the piece of wood as in Exercise III., and cut lines on the face and edges at each end to leave some waste. For this purpose the wood is supplied about one inch too long. Saw off this waste, as in the preceding exercise. Of course the ends could be planed true, but it is not advisable to take up end planing yet. The marking gauge is not used to draw the lines on the face edges and ends, indicating the width of the chamfer, as the cut of the spur being at right angles to the wood would thus destroy the angle of the chamfer, which should slope into the edge or face, and make a good clean intersection.

The pencil is, therefore, resorted to for this purpose, but the manner of its use is peculiar.

If. in measuring the depth of the chamfer on the several sides of the wood, an error is made in measurement, the corners, or ' masons-mitres ' of the chamfer, will not coincide. To prevent this, a thumb-gauge is used. This is a little piece of wood notched out at one corner to the same depth as the edge of the chamfer from the face, 3/8 in.

Fig. 114.

Apply the notch of the thumb-gauge to the face side and edge, and place the point of the pencil against the angle formed by the gauge and the face side (see fig. 114). Draw both gauge and pencil together, down the whole length of the wood, and repeat the operation on the opposite side and at both ends.

Now cut another notch in the opposite end of the thumb-gauge 1/4 in. deep. Turn the exercise on its edge and mark in the same way as on the face.

In chamfering hold the plane as in fig. 115, the left hand acting as a guide for the plane and to keep it down on the work. Take a good, steady forward stroke, the whole length of the wood, and continue planing down to the lines on the face and edge, taking care to hold the plane at such an angle that both lines are reached simultaneously, or as nearly so as possible. In any case do not go beyond either line.

When the chamfer has been made on one edge with the plane, take the wood out, and screwing it up in the vice, chamfer one end. Hold the chisel, as shown in fig. 116, in the right hand, with the left hand across the back of the blade; push it forward steadily with the right hand, and commence to cut with the right-hand corner of the edge. At the same time the left hand should keep the blade from cutting too deeply or lifting out, and should gently but firmly push the blade of the chisel across, so that every portion of the blade cuts successively till the left-hand corner of the cutting edge is reached. By this time the shearing action of the chisel has carried it to the other side of the wood, and another similar cut should be made.

Fig 115.

If the first effort is not successful, the end of the wood may be cut off, a fresh chamfer marked, and the process of chisel chamfering repeated. Treat the remaining edges in the same way as the first, and finish the exercise.

Fig. 116.

If the exercise is well finished it may be returned to when the pupil is further advanced, and be completed into a hat-peg bearer, or some other useful object.