Fig. 133. This Is Another Model Which May Be Taken Instead Of Model II

The wood required is a piece of bass-wood, yellow deal, or some hard wood, 14 1/2 ins. by 5 1/4 ins. by § in. thick, and another small piece 5 3/4 ins. by 2 1/2 ins. by 1/2 in. for the bottom.

First draw the orthographic projections in fig. 132, or, if preferred, the isometric projection (fig. 133) can be made instead.

The wood having rather larger surfaces than in any previous exercise, there is a little greater difficulty in planing it true in both length and breadth, but this will probably not be insurmountable now, as some practice in planing has already been obtained, and enough material - 1/8 in. - has been allowed to be planed off in the preparation of the wood, to give the pupil an opportunity of making a true surface, without planing the wood thinner than the dimension in the drawing.

Front elevation.

Side elevation.

Plan.

Fig. 132.

Isometric projection. Fig. 133.

Having planed up the large piece of wood, mark out the parts of the model on it completely, as in fig. 134. The curved top is here shown on the inside, but the pupil should draw it on the back, opposite to where shown. The drawing is made to show the curve on the inside merely to save an illustration.

First plane one end true, however, as an accident in breaking the grain will not then have such a bad effect, as a fresh end can then be made from which the markings can be set out; but if the cut lines are all made to indicate the grooves, and an accident to the end grain then happens, the wood is either spoiled or a new series of cuts for grooves, a little further in from one end, must be made, the abandoned lines disfiguring the model very much. The ornamental curves on the top of the front and back have only to be set out on one side, as after the grooves have been pared out and the sides cut apart, the two with ornamental tops should be tacked together, as in fig. 135, and the concave curve - a semicircle given by a hole bored with a 1-in. centre bit - made through both pieces of wood, while the wood is held tightly down. Saw out the greater part of the waste with a tenon saw. The convex curve is obtained by vertical paring, and as it will probably not be perfectly true from the chisel alone, the flat surface of a file or a piece of glass-paper can be used, to render it quite smooth.

Fig. 134.

Chamfer off the top corners of the back and front, and having bored the nail holes, they will be finished.

The wood for the base of the case is 1/4 in. larger in each dimension than it is required to finish, and it must be completed with sharp corners. One edge is first planed true, and in order to avoid the liability of breaking out the grain, the corner is cut off, but in the waste, outside the cut and gauged lines indicating the limits of size. After planing both ends the remaining long side may be shot true to the gauge line, and the base is finished to its proper dimensions. Fig. 136 shows clearly how the cutting of the corner is managed, and the direction in which the planing is done is indicated by arrows.

Fig. 135.

Fig. 136.

In nailing the sides together, oval steel brads about 3/4 in. in length should be used, but for the bottom about ten 1-in. brads will be found quite enough. Before nailing the bottom on, the sides should be fastened together, and placed on the back of the base, as in the plan, and a pencil line round the outside will give the outline of the bottom of the sides. With this as a guide the holes for the nails can be bored with a bradawl.