This section is from the book "Manual Instruction: Woodwork. The English Sloyd", by S. Barter. Also available from Amazon: Manual Instruction: Woodwork.
Fig. 160. - This rack is an easy alternative model to the two preceding ones, but combines the use of rather a large number of tools.
Face and edge planing, sawing, paring, boring, modelling with spoke-shave, the housing joint, and screwing are all introduced.

Front elevation.

Side elevation.
Fig. 160.
Make the drawings of this model as in the illustration. These will be found quite enough to work from.
Two pieces of wood will be required, one 10 1/2 ins. by 4 1/2 ins. and 3/8 in. thick, if made in oak or ash, or \ in. if made of deal, and one 4 1/2 ins. long, 1} in. wide, and the same thickness as the larger piece.
Make the wood true on both faces and edges, with the jack and trying planes, and then set out the back and the sloping front on the large piece in the same manner as in the previous models; but, in order to economise the wood, draw the curved top of the back at one end, and the top of the front with the hole, afterwards to be reduced to a semicircular curve, at the other end (see fig. 161).
Now bore the two holes and cut off the waste outside the end of the front. Shoot the edge true, and cut off the corners to the dimensions by vertical paring. Turn to the other end of the piece, and screwing the wood in the vice, cut out the curve with a bow saw, and finish with spokeshave. Mark cut lines to indicate the grooves, and saw and pare them out to 1/8 in. deep. Note that the groove in the front should be cut in at an angle of say 80 ° to the surface. Now cut the front and back apart, and model the bottom of the latter with the jack plane, using the shooting board.
The small piece of wood for the shelf may now be planed up to an extreme width of 1 1/2 in., and one edge then bevelled off slightly, to fit the slot in the front. Put the model together, and with a very small bradawl carefully bore the holes for the screws from both back and front, and then screw the parts together, using No. 3 or No. 4 5/8-in. screws - flat-headed in the back and round-headed ones through the front, for the sake of appearance.

Fig. 161.
 
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