As beef requires a large sound fire, mutton must have a brisk and sharp one; if you wish to have mutton tender it should be hung as long as it will keep, and then good eight-tooth, i. e. four years' old mutton is as good earing as venison.
603. The Leg, Haunch, & Saddle will be the better for being hung up in a cool airy place for four or five days at least; in temperate weather a week; in cold weather, ten days. A leg of eight pounds will take about two hours; let it be well basted.
604. A Chine or Saddle - i.e. the two loins, of ten or eleven pounds - two hours and a half. It is the business of the butcher to take off the skin and skewer it on again, to defend the meat from extreme heat, and preserve its succulence. If this is neglected, tie a sheet of paper over it; baste the strings you tie it on with directly, or they will burn. About a quarter of an hour before you think it will be done, take off the skin or paper, that it may get a pale brown colour, and then baste it, and flour it lightly to froth it.
606. A Loin of Mutton, from an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters. The most elegant way of carving this is to cut it lengthwise, as you do a saddle. A neck about the same time as a loin. It must be carefully jointed, or it is very difficult to carve.
607. The Neck and Breast are, in small families, commonly roasted together. The cook will then crack the bones across the middle before they are put down to roast. If this is not done carefully they are very trouble-some to curve. A breast, an hour and a quarter.
608. A Haunch - i.e., the leg and part of the loin of mutton. Send up two sauce-boats with it; one of rich drawn mutton gravy, made without spice or herbs, and the other of sweet sauce. It generally weighs about fifteen pounds, and requires about three hours and a half to roast it.