Washing Fluids

Rub up 75 parts of milk of sulphur with 125 parts of glycerine in a mortar, next add 50 parts of camphorated spirit and 1 part of lavender oil, and finally stir in 250 parts of rose water and 1,000 parts of distilled water. The liquid must be stirred constantly when filling it into bottles, since the sulphur settles rapidly and would thus be unevenly distributed.

Grosser's Washing Brick

Water.............   54 parts

Sodium hydrate. . ..   38.21 parts

Sodium biborate... .     6.61 parts

Sodium silicate.....     1.70 parts

Haenkel's Bleaching Solution

Water............. 36.15 parts

Sodium hydrate. . . . 40.22 parts

Sodium silicate..... 23.14 parts

Luhn's Washing Extract

Water............. 34.50 parts

Sodium hydrate. . . . 25.33 parts

Soap.............. 39.40 parts

Washing Powders

I

Sodium carbonate, partly effloresced. 2 parts

Soda ash.......... 1 part

II

Sodium carbonate,

partly effloresced.     6 parts

Soda ash..........     3 parts

Yellow soap........     1 part

III

Sodium carbonate, partly effloresced 3 parts

Soap bark......... 1 part

IV

Sodium carbonate, partly effloresced

Equal Borax.............

Yellow soap.......

V

A good powder can be made from 100 parts of crystal soda, 25 parts of dark-yellow rosin-cured soap, and 5 parts of soft soap. The two latter are placed in a pan, along with one-half the soda (the curd soap being cut into small lumps), and slowly heated, with continual crutching, until they are thoroughly melted—without, however, beginning to boil. The fire is then drawn and the remaining soda crutched in until it, too, is melted, this being effected by the residual heat of the mass and the pan. The mass will be fairly thick by the time the soda is all absorbed. After leaving a little longer, with occasional stirring, the contents are spread out on several thin sheets of iron in a cool room, to be then turned over by the shovel at short intervals, in order to further cool and break down the mixture. The soap will then be in a friable condition, and can be rubbed through the sieve, the best results being obtained by passing through a coarse sieve first, and one of finer mesh afterwards. With these ingredients a fine yellow-colored powder will be obtained. White stock soap may also be used, and, if desired, colored with palm oil and the same colorings as are used for toilet soaps. The object of adding soft soap is to increase the solubility and softness of the powder, but the proportion used should not exceed one-third of the hard soap, or the powder will be smeary and handle moist. The quality of the foregoing product is good, the powder being stable and not liable to ball, even after prolonged storage; neither does it wet the paper in which it is packed, nor swell up, and therefore the packets retain their appearance.

In making ammonia-turpentine soap powder the ammonia and oil of turpentine are crutched into the mass shortly before removing it from the pan, and if the powder is scented—for which purpose oil of mirbane is mostly used—the perfume is added at the same stage.