This section is from the book "Complete Self-Instructing Library Of Practical Photography", by J. B. Schriever. Also available from Amazon: Complete Self-Instructing Library Of Practical Photography.
332. Take of Solution No. 2, four ounces; of Stock Solution No. 3, two ounces; of Stock Solution No. 4, two ounces, - making eight ounces of solution. Before using pour this combined solution back and forth from the graduate to a clean tray, to thoroughly mix all of the chemicals. After placing the plate in the tray, pour the solution over the plate, and be sure to cover the entire plate with one sweep, as the action of this developer is so rapid that unless all parts of the plate are covered with the first sweep, there will likely be streaks and lines in the completely developed negative.
333 When making an exposure, whether portrait, landscape, interior or exterior, you must at all times expose for the shadows; that is, you must give sufficient exposure to supply the required detail in the shadows, but when developing the plate you must develop for the highlights, making due allowance for fixing.
334. You will find with this developer the plate, if properly exposed, will develop quickly, and the image will grow gradually. The shadows will develop along with their proper relations to the highlights, and when the latter are developed to the point you desire, your shadows will be crisp and round, with plenty of detail.
335. The color of the plate is governed by the strength of the sulphite. Water is subject to several chemical changes during the year. Usually in the spring the water becomes infected with more or less vegetable matter, and there are other times when the water becomes more alkali than usual. You will realize this when your plates, after washing, are of a more or less yellow color - there being more alkali in the developer than enough to balance the developer. If the plate becomes too yellow you should increase the strength of the sulphite; if the plate becomes too gray reduce the strength of the sulphite. Allow the carbonate of soda to remain 20 Hydrometer test always, and regulate the color entirely by increasing or reducing the strength of the sulphite.
336. For Seeds, Stanley and Standard plates use the developer according to this formula. For Hammer plates use three ounces of No. 2 (pyro) in place of four ounces, and add one ounce of water to the developer. For Cramer plates use five ounces of No. 2 (pyro), in place of four ounces, and add one ounce of water to the developer.
337. From the fact that Seeds plates are very heavily coated, they must be carried farther in the developer than other plates. The reason you use less pyro for Hammer plates is that they are thinner coated, and work with greater contrast, consequently, to obtain soft effects they do not need the same amount of pyro, nor as strong contrast in the lighting of the subject as the other brands which are thicker coated, in which the contrast must be built up. Pyro is a contrast producer in developing. The emulsion of Cramer plates is such that it requires a little more pyro to give the desired contrast on this brand of plate. By adjusting the developer, according to formula, and instructions given herein, you can obtain every quality that exists in any brand of plates.