Adulteration. Part 2
Description
This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Adulteration. Part 2
Staple Materials
This table lists materials which are used in the construction of under- and outer-garments, classified as to, fiber, weave, price, width, and description. Standard materials in general use are shown in Figs. 10,11, 12, 13, 14, and 15.
Name | Fiber | Weave | Width | Price V | Appearance and Use |
Albatross............ | Wool | Plain Armure | Inches 38-40 36-40 | \ $ .75-$1.00 $1.50 | A soft crepe like wool; suitable for light weight school or simple afternoon dresses. Soft, semi-lustrous, heavy silk; beautiful |
Armure.............. | |||||
weave. Dresses. | |||||
Basket Cloth........ | Wool | Basket | 45-50 | $1.00-$2.50 | Soft wool, loose woven cloth. Used for dresses and skirts. |
Batiste.............. | Cotton Wool | Plain Plain | 32-45 45 | $ ,35-$1.00 $1.00-$2.00 | Fine sheer material, used for lingerie waists |
and summer dresses. Also light weight wool dresses. | |||||
Bengaline........... | Wool Silk | Plain Cord | 48-54 | $1.50 | Corded wool, cord running lengthwise of cloth; used for dresses. Heavy corded silk. Afternoon coats, etc. |
Hair or wool Cotton or silk warp hair filling | Linen | 22-36 45-54 | $2.00 | Woven into cloth to produce a curled surface. Glossy, hard surface. Used for suits, skirts, and petticoats. | |
Boucle............. | |||||
Brilliantine......... | $1.00-$2.00 | ||||
Broadcloth.......... | Wool | Plain or twill | 50-60 | $?,.00-$5.00 | Smooth-faced cloth, high gloss. Suits, coats, dresses. |
Brocade............. | Cotton Linen Silk Satin Wool | Figure | 27 36 27-40 27-40 45 | $ .50 $1.00 $2.00-$5.00 . $2.00-$5.00 $1.50-$4.00 | |
Calico............... | Cotton | Plain | 25 | $ .07 | Inexpensive printed cloth; used for aprons, suit covers, etc. |
Cambric............ | Cotton | Plain | 25-36 | $ .06-$ .30 | Fine cotton fabric used for undergarments. Coarser weaves used for patterns. |
Cashmere........... | Wool | Twill | 42-45 | $ .75-81.50 | Soft, fine twilled woolen material. Dresses. |
Usually in plain colors. | |||||
Challis.............. | Wool or cotton and wool | Plain | 32 | $ .65-$1.00 1 | Fine wool material, suitable for afternoon |
dresses. Plain colors or figured. |
Chambray........... | Cotton | Plain | 32 | $.12^-$.25 $ .08-$ .12 | Light weight cotton cloth; always woven |
with one color in warp, and white filling; white selvedge. School or house dresses. Loosely woven fabric of medium fine thread, | |||||
Cheese Cloth........ Cheviot............. | Cotton Wool or worsted Silk | Plain Plain or twill Plain | 36 50-54 45 | $l,00-$3.00 $ .75-$1.00 | used for dust cloths, patterns and covers. Coarse, heavy woolen cloth; suitable for |
Chiffon.............. | suits, storm- or top-coats. Thin, gauzy fabric for waists, sleeves, collars, | ||||
etc. | |||||
Chiffon Cloth........ | Silk | Plain | 45 | $1.00-$1.50 | Soft thin gauzy fabric, heavier in weight and more durable than ■ the chiffon. Waists, etc. |
China silk........... | Silk Cotton | Plain Plain | 32-36 36 | $ .75-$1.25 $ .25-$ .50 | Thin glossy silk, used for linings. |
Chintz.............. | Fine medium heavy cotton stuff; usually | ||||
figured; used for dresses, etc. | |||||
Cordurov............ | Cotton Silk and cotton Wool Linen Wool Cotton Silk | Pile Plain Twill Plain Twill Plain | 27 36 50-54 30-45 50-56 32-36 | $1.00-$2.00 $1.00-$1.50 $2.00-$4.00 $1.00-$1.50 $2.00-$3.00 $ .18-$1.00 $1.50-$4.00 | Corded cotton fabric. Used for school suits, |
Corsica.............. | dresses, etc. Lining silk of fine grade. | ||||
Covert.............. | Fine twilled material; wears like iron. | ||||
Crash............... | Coarse, heavy linen, good for skirts, suits, | ||||
Cravennette......... | etc. Light weight wool material; good school | ||||
Crepe............... | suits; can be rain-proofed. Crinkled surface. Used for undergarments, | ||||
waists, dresses. | |||||
Wool Silk | Plain | 38-40 40-45 | $1.00-$1.50-$4.00 | Semi-luster; crepe surface. Dresses, blouses, and in light weight undergarments. | |
Silk | Plain | 40 | $1.50-$2.00 | Blouses, sleeves, dresses, etc. | |
Luster; smooth surface. Dresses, evening | |||||
Crepe Meteor........ | Silk | 40-45 | $1.50-$4.00 | gowns. | |
Diagonal............ | Wool | Twill | 45-56 | $1.50 | Cloth of heavy or medium heavy weight; |
suits, coats. | |||||
Dimity.............. | Cotton | 32 | $ .25-$ .35 | Striped or cross-barred, plain or figured. | |
Dresses, kimonos, waists. |
Staple Materials - Continued
Name | Fiber | Weave | Width | Price | Appearance and Use |
Drill................ | Cotton | Twill | Inches 36 | f .15-$ .20 | Twilled cotton cloth; middy blouses, school and play dresses, rompers. |
Duck................ | Cotton Raw silk warp, cotton | Plain | 36 27-50 | $12^-$. 20 $1.00 | Like sail-cloth; heavy; for skirts, sport suits, middy blouses, etc. Lustrous surface, soft, but not clinging. |
Eolienne............. | |||||
or worsted filling Linen or linen and | Plain | $1.00-$2.00 | Dresses, suits. Rough surface, looks like wool. Dresses | ||
Eponge.............. | |||||
cotton | 45 | and suits; a 20 per cent, cotton mixture; is not crushable. | |||
Faille.,............. | Silk | Cord | 36 | $1.50 | Surface in light ridges; dresses, afternoon coats, trimmings. |
Flannel.............. | |||||
Wool or cotton and wool Cotton | Plain or twill Plain | 27-36 | $ .55-S1.00 $ .08-$ .15 | Weave like coarse cotton; soft and warm; | |
Flannelette.......... | petticoats, house jackets, dresses, shirts. | ||||
Silk | Twill | 27 27-40 | $ .75-$1.50 | ||
Foulard............. | Usually figured (flowers or conventional design). Summer dresses; good for utility; sheds dust. | ||||
Gabardine.......... | Wool | Twill | 50-54 | $1.50-$3.75 | Somewhat like whipcord, but soft. Suits, dresses; does not shine as quickly as serge; wears well. |
Galatea.............. | Cotton | Twill | 32 | $ .15-$ .20 | Twilled cotton, somewhat like drill. Does |
not keep white as well. Middy blouses, school dresses. | |||||
Gauze............... | Silk Cotton | Gauze, leno Plain | 45 32 | $4.00-$5.00 $ .25-$1.00 | Open mesh. Dresses, curtains. Plain weave; pattern produced by yarn |
Gingham............ | |||||
dyed thread; also plain colors-dresses, rompers, etc. | |||||
Grenadine......... | Silk | Gauze | 44 | $1.50-$3.00 | Open weave, sometimes figured. Dresses (requires silk slip); good wearing qualities. |
Grosgrain............ | Silk | Plain | 22 | $1.50 | Heavy, lustrous; shows rib or slight cord on surface. Dresses, wraps. |
Habutai............. | Silk Wool Wool | Plain Twill -Plain | 32-36 38-45 50-54 | $2.00-$3.00 $1.00-82.00 $1.50-$2.50 | Lustrous; close weave. Shirts. |
Henrietta............ | Luster; soft to touch. Dresses. | ||||
Homespun........... | Coarse; heavy. Suits, separate skirts; good for hard service. | ||||
Hopsacking.......... | Wool | Plain | 50-54 | $1.75-$2.00 | Coarse, rough surface like bagging; suits, skirts. |
Indian Head......... | Cotton | Plain | 36-45 | $ .15-$ .25 | Coarse, heavy muslin. Skirts, dresses, rompers, middy blouses. Easily laundered and lasting wear. |
India Silk........... | Silk | Plain | 32-36 | $ .75-$1.50 | Plain, lustrous, thin. Used for summer |
utility dresses and waists. | |||||
Khaki............... | Cotton | Twill | 36 | $ .25 | Dust colored, heavy cloth. Sport and outing suits, middy blouses, school dresses, knickers, etc. Genuine khaki launders well, wears indefinitely. |
Linen: handkerchief, dress, butcher's | Linen | Plain | 36-90 | $ .25-$2.00 | Lustrous; heavy, fine. Dresses, suits, rompers, blouses, interlinings. |
Lawn............... | Cotton or linen | Plain | 27-36 | $ .10-$ .50 | Sheer, stiff (with dressing). Plain and |
figured. Dresses, slips, aprons. | |||||
Longcloth........... | Cotton Cotton | Plain Plain | 36 27-32 | $ .15-$ .30 $ .25-81.00 | Fine, soft to touch. Undergarments and infants' wear. Usually striped; colored and white. Shirts, |
Madras............. | and satin | dresses. | |||
MarQuissette......... | Silk or cotton | Leno or gauze | 45 | $ .75-$1.25 | Open weave. Dresses, waists. |
Melton ............. | Wool | Plain and twill | 50-54 | $2.00-$4.00 | Thick, heavy, rough to touch. Coats. |
Messaline............ | Silk | 36 | $1.00-$1.50 | Luster, light weight. Slips, petticoats, finings. | |
Mohair | |||||
Silk Wrool | Cord | 22-40 45 | |||
Moire............... | $1.50-$5.00 $2.00 | Slight cord, watered surface. Dresses, coats,' wraps, waists. | |||
Staple Materials - Continued
Name | Fiber | Weave | Width | Price | Appearance and Use |
Muslin............. | Cotton | Plain or twilled | Inches 36 | «8> .J.O-«ip .^o | • White or colored, fine or coarse; skirts, dresses, middy blouses. |
Nainsook............ | Cotton | Plain | 36-45 | $ .20-$ .50 | Fine, soft. Undergarments, infants' slips, and dresses. |
Nun's veiling......... | Wool | Plain | 36 | $1.00-$2.00 | Light weight, plain. Dresses, summer weight. |
Organdie............ | Cotton | Plain | 36-72 | $ .75-$1.25 | Sheer, with stiffness, which keeps it firm. Washable (some grades). Dresses, waists, collars and cuffs. |
Panama............. | Wool Cotton | Plain Plain | 42-54 | $1.00-$1.75 | Medium heavy. Separate skirts, dresses. Plain colors, stripes and figures. Skirts, |
Percale.............. | |||||
36 | $.123^-$.25 | dresses, waists. | |||
Percaline............ | Cotton | Plain | 36 | !|p .Zo~JJp .oo | Fine, soft, strong. Waist linings and foundation skirts. |
Persian lawn......... | Cotton | Plain | 32-36 | $ .25-$ .50 | Sheer and fine. Lingerie blouses, dresses, infants' dresses. |
Pique............... | Cotton | Cord | 27 | $ .50-$ 1.00 | Ribbed; white and colors. Separate skirts and dresses. |
Pongee.............. | Silk | Plain | 27 | $ .65-$1.50 | Natural colors and dyed; more or less rough and harsh. Unlimited wear; spots with water but launders well. Waists, dresses, coats, petticoats. |
Poplin............... | Cotton Silk | Cord | 27-32 45 | $ .25 $2.00-$4.00 | Ribbed; white and colors Dresses skirts |
etc. | |||||
Prunella............. | Wool Wool Silk Cotton | Satin Plain Plain | 45-50 48-52 36 36-45 | $1.50-$3.00 $1.00-$2.00 $ .75-$1.50 $ .50-$1.50 | Glossy surface, harsh. Skirts, dresses. Rougher than pongee; in colors. Dresses, coats. Rough weave; heavy and light weight. |
Rajah............... | |||||
Ratine.............. | |||||
Summer dresses and skirts. | |||||
Sateen.............. | Cotton Silk or silk and cotton | Twill Satin | 36 27-40 | $ .25-$ .50 $1.00-$5.00 | Glossy, soft to touch. Lining for waists and skirts; petticoats. High gloss; soft; heavy and light. Dresses, |
Satin................ | Cotton | Plain | coats, skirts. Crinkled surface; with stripes. Petticoats, | ||
Seersucker........... | 27-36 | $ .25 | rompers, etc. | ||
Serge................ | Wool, worsted, silk | Twill | 48-58 | $1.00-13.00 | Either hard or soft finish; shines easily; wears long time. Suits, skirts, dresses. |
Shantung............ | Silk Wool Cotton | Plain Twill | 36 48-54 | $ .75-S1.50 $1.00-$3.00 | |
Shepherd's Plaid..... | Checked; in black, or colors and white. Skirts, suits, top-coats. Open weave, sheer, usually embroidered. | ||||
Swiss................ | Silk | Plain | 32-45 32-40 | $ .75-$2.00 $1.00-$4.00 | Lingerie blouses and dresses. Plain colors or changeable; soft qualities. |
Taffeta.............. | |||||
• | Wears well if not adulterated. Lustrous. Coats, dresses, etc. | ||||
Tricot.............. | Wool, cotton, silk Wool | Twill Plain | 50-54 | $2.00-$3.00 $1.00-$2.50 | Twill weave, fine. Men's and women's suits. |
Tweed.............. | Rough surface; long wear; presses well. Suits, skirts, sport, or travelling coats. | ||||
Velvet............... | Silk or silk and linen or cotton | Pile | 18 | $1.00-110.00 | Rich and deep in tone. Dresses, coats, hats. |
Velveteen............ | Cotton Worsted or cotton warp and worsted filling | Pile Twill | 27-36 50-54 | $1.00 $1.50-$3.00 | Like velvet, not so rich; suits and dresses. |
Venetian............ | Like broadcloth; shows twill; coats, suits. | ||||
Voile................ | Worsted Cotton Wool | Plain Twill ' | 38-45 | $1.50 $ .25-$1.00 | Open weave; firm in wool, very soft in cotton. Fancy suits in wool; separate skirts. Lingerie dresses and blouses in cotton. Loosely woven; glossy surface; long hairs |
Zibeline............. | $2.00-$4.00 | on surface. Dresses and suits. | |||
Fig. 13. - Linen fabrics suitable for skirts, coats, and dresses.
Fig. 14. - Wool fabrics suitable for skirts, dresses, and coats.
Upper row (left to right), challis, albatross, shepherd's checks. Second row (left to right), brilliantine, serge, gabardine. Third row (left to right), broadcloth, diagonal, and striped zibeline. Lower row (left to right), cheviot (2) and covert cloth.
Fig. 15. - Silk fabrics suitable for dresses and wraps. Upper row (left to right), silk serge, moire (2).
Second row (left to right), chiffon velvet, silk poplin, and crepe meteor. Third row (left to right), silk net, plaid taffeta, faille.
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