This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
This sleeve is in one piece, with one seam on inside of arm. It has more or less fulness at the top, which clings to the arm or puffs out at the top in great fulness, according to the prevailing modes. Separate the pieces of the pattern at the top, keeping the lower parts together as far as the elbow until the desired fulness is secured. The greater the width added, the greater height at the top becomes necessary until a sleeve resembling a filled balloon is attained. To gain added fulness, the pattern may be enlarged on the front seam as well as between (Fig. 73B). To cut: Place the center line of added fulness on the lengthwise thread of the material.
Place pattern so that the pieces are together from the elbow to the top. Take out a dart from elbow to wrist.
Same as above, omitting the dart.

Fig. 73. - One-piece sleeves designed from two-seam sleeve pattern; A, close-fitting sleeve with dart from elbow to wrist; also bishop sleeve; B, leg-o'-mutton sleeve.
 
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