For a skirt with a raised waist line, use a ribbed silk belting as deep as the raise in the skirt above the normal line. The belt, if wide, may be fitted with darts, the greater amount taken out in the center of the width, if one wishes part of the belt to fall below the normal waist line; otherwise, take the darts deeper at the bottom of the belt, sloping to nothing at the top. When finishing the skirt at the normal waist line, use narrow belting, either single and cover raw edge of cloth with Prussian binding, or the double belting, both edges of which are finished. In making a separate belt of the cloth, cut one strip of cloth lengthwise and line it with silk. Two thicknesses of cloth would make the belt too thick and clumsy. Press the belt carefully (Fig. 216).


When the skirt is completed, try it on to see if there is any fulness at the waist line or in seams over the hip. Fulness can be shrunken out on the pressing board by laying a wet cloth over the spot and pressing until cloth is dry, repeating the process until fulness is gone.

Curved seams can be well-shaped by pressing over a tailor cushion, using a wet cloth same as above. Tailor cushions are oval shaped, of heavy duck, stuffed tight with woolen rags, cut in small hits. Press the hem very carefully, using a wet press cloth. If the cloth should by any means become shiny on the right side while pressing, dampen the right side, take a clothes brush, or better, a whisk broom, hold the bristles tight at the end and brush up the nap while it is wet. Lay the wet cloth on the wrong side, hold the iron and pass it lightly over the surface until it is dry, then wet slightly, brush again and press on the wrong side until almost dry.

FiG. 216.   Belt of webbing fitted with darts.

FiG. 216. - Belt of webbing fitted with darts.