Age: 14-18 Years; 18-24 Years

Various materials demand various methods of marking pattern, but for the average household goods of fairly light colours, the quickest and most direct method is to make a clear tracing of the pattern on firm tracing paper, or, if many repeats are needed, on linen tracing sheet.

This must then be carefully set in place on the material on a drawing board and two drawing pins inserted at one side ; now slip in a sheet of red, blue, or (if the material be dark) black carbon paper, and pin down the traced sheet again at the other sides, taking care not to set the pins through the carbon sheet. Trace through this with a hard short pencil or a stylus, keeping the pencil at such a low angle that it may be drawn after the hand (if it be kept upright it cuts the paper).

Be very careful that no buttons or bracelets are worn on the wrist while tracing, or they will make untidy marks on the material.

Dark materials are best to be marked as follows. Draw the pattern out on firm cartridge paper, and prick the lines with a very stout darning needle on some padded surface, making about four holes to the inch. Pin this on the material on a board, and take a small sponge dipped into Chinese white paint (water colour in tubes is the best). Squeeze the paint out on a small dish and use it as dry as possible, and pounce it through the holes on to the material. This method is good for marking thick woollens, arras cloths, and other surfaces which will not take impression from carbon paper. Another excellent method for marking woolly or pile surfaces, like velvet, is to cut a simple stencil in oiled sheet, such as is used in a copying press, and this may be stencilled through with the Chinese white paint, which must be used very dry, so that no drops collect underneath the paper. Diag. 228 shows such .a stencil cut, and 229 shows the same worked out fully on velvet. It will be noted that the smaller details need not be cut in the stencil, they can quite easily be marked in with a slight line of tacking if they cannot be sewn direct without marking. In such a stencil only half the design need be cut, and when one half is marked the paint may be washed away and the stencil turned over and the whole pattern completed.

Lesson X Marking Off Of Pattern On Material 231

Diag. 228.

Lesson X Marking Off Of Pattern On Material 232

Diag. 230 illustrates a velvet pocket marked off in this way and sewn in satin stitch with beads and French knots. Such a bag would require a stiff canvas or leather lining pasted on before it is made up.

Thin transparent materials may be pinned tightly over the drawing and it may be traced through with a pencil.