3................

4................

Dress bloomers

1. Gingham

2. Percale

3................

4................

Undergarment bloomers 1. Sateen

2................

3................

4................

You may wonder why it is that some of these materials are especially suitable for certain kinds of bloomers. If you will examine the samples closely and compare the weaves with the pictures of weaves in Fig. 45 you will learn one reason why this is true. A magnifying glass is a great help in examining the materials. You will note that gingham and percale have the same kind of weave as shown in the first part of Fig. 45. This is the most common of weaves and is called the plain weave or tabby weave. A simple way of making the plain weave on a small cardboard loom is shown in Fig. 46. Perhaps you have done a small piece of weaving on a loom similar to this. The long straight threads are called warp threads and the threads that pass back and forth are called filling threads. Can you describe the way in which the filling threads cross the warp threads in the plain weave? This weave makes a strong, firm cloth that launders well.

Fig. 45.

Fig. 46.

1. Pick out all the samples that were brought in which are made with the plain weave.

2. Count all the dresses which the girls in the class are wearing that are made with the plain weave.

Twill Weave. - If you examined your samples carefully you found that some of them were made with a weave like that shown in the second part of Fig. 45. A strong, diagonal effect is quite evident. Galatea is an example of this type of weave which is known as the twill weave. By examining Fig. 45 you can see how the filling threads pass over and under the warp threads. The twill weave is the strongest, firmest and most durable of all the weaves Therefore, it is easy to see why galatea is a most suitable material for gymnasium bloomers. Examine your clothing to see how many girls in the class are wearing materials made with a twill weave.

Fig. 47.

Name......................

Kind of bloomers............

Name of material............

Cost per yard................

Length of bloomers ..........

Amount needed..............

Total cost ..................

It is well to consider at this time what other materials such as thread, elastic and buttons will be needed.

Cutting the Bloomers. - In making garments a great deal of attention is always given to the lengthwise and crosswise of the material. Lengthwise, of course, is the direction of the material that corresponds to the selvedge edges and is sometimes called the up and down of the material. These up and down threads are the same as the warp threads and are generally stronger than the crosswise or filling threads. Most garments are cut so that the lengthwise of the material runs lengthwise of the garment. You will remember that kimonos and nightgowns are cut this way. This is also true of the bloomers. In the case of the kimono the material was folded lengthwise so as to cut both sides of the garment exactly alike. It is also necessary to cut the two legs of the bloomers exactly alike but the pattern is too wide to permit the material to be folded lengthwise. Can you tell from Fig. 47 how the material should be folded? Folding material with a right and wrong side also prevents cutting the two halves of the bloomers for the same leg.

Commercial patterns have directions and diagrams printed on the envelops that are helpful in using the pattern.