1. Examine your pattern to see if the diagram shows how to lay your pattern on the material.

2. Are the seams allowed on your pattern?

3. Can you find the marks which show how the garment should be put together?

4. Do you think you could cut the waistband if there were no pattern given for it? Why?

When you think you understand the directions pin your pattern on the cloth and then ask your teacher if it is correct. This may prevent your making mistakes which would ruin your material. It is a good plan for the girls in a class to take turns helping each other when they are cutting out their bloomers. this seam has been made. The last picture shows how the bloomers should look after all the seams have been finished.

How to Put Bloomers Together. - When you start to put your garment together it may seem very puzzling to know what two edges to sew together first. The first part of Fig. 48 shows how the first two edges are joined in a seam. The second picture shows the legs folded together so that another seam can be made. The third picture shows the bloomers after Fig. 49. The first part of Fig. 49 shows the bloomer leg before it has been sewed together. The second part of Fig. 49 shows how each leg is sewed up and the third picture shows how the two legs are joined. It is very important to get the legs sewed together exactly right. Otherwise both parts may be made for the same leg. It is a good plan to lay the two parts of your garment out on the table and fold them so that they are exactly like Picture 2 of Fig. 49. Then they should be pinned and sewed.

Fig. 48.

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Another method of putting bloomers together is shown in Fig. 50 shows a mistake in sewing up the two legs. It is impossible to join these two legs and have the edges match. The girl who is careless in laying out her garment and pinning it together is apt to make this mistake. If you follow the directions given above you will not make this mistake.

Fig. 49.

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Seams. - A seam which is frequently used on bloomers is the fell seam. Since you have already learned how to make French seams it will be a good plan for you to learn how to make the fell seam and use it on your bloomers. This seam, which is often called the flat felled seam, gets its name from the fact that it is flat on the material and has no part that stands up as in the French seam. For this reason it is an especially good seam to use for underwear. You can learn how to make this seam by studying the diagrams in Fig. 51 and answering these questions.

1. Place the two right sides of the material together and make a seam as shown in the first part of Fig. 51. If left in this condition what would this seam be called? How is this beginning for the fell seam different from the beginning for the French seam? Notice that the orange color shows the right side of the material in each of these pictures.

Fig. 50.

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Fig. 51.

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2. Study the second and third parts of Fig. 51 to find out why one edge of the seam must be trimmed off. It should be trimmed to about one-eighth of an inch. Care should be taken not to cut so close that the seam will pull out.

3. The seam should be creased and basted carefully to hold it in position while the seam is stitched.

Can you think how the two edges might be placed together in the first seam so that it is not necessary to trim one edge?

Warning: It is a common mistake to fail to pull the material out flat when the seam is made. If this is not done it will have folds and wrinkles which show on the right side. Be sure to examine the right side of the seam before you stitch.

Inspection of Fell Seams. - While you are working on these seams have your work criticized frequently, either by your teacher or by some girl in the class whom the teacher may appoint to help her. When do you think will be the best time for you to have your work criticized?

A Reminder. - Have you formed the habit of sitting properly? Which picture in Fig. 52 shows the best position when sitting at the machine? When doing hand sewing? What is wrong in the other pictures?

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Finish at the Top. - There are two possible ways that you may use to finish the top of your bloomers. They may be finished with a hem which holds an elastic. If you decide to use this way of finishing your bloomers at the top, you should take great care that the elastic is not too tight. If it should be too tight it would not only be uncomfortable, but would be injurious because it would interfere with the proper circulation of the blood.