This model is designed as a companion to the Shamrock III model in the last issue. The general directions for making the latter model apply to this one equally well. The dimensions of Fig. 1 are as follows:

If the model is built for sailing it should be hollowed out to about 1-2" in thickness. The neatest way to fit the board for the deck, is to cut it about 1-4" smaller all around than the outline of the boat, then with a sharp knife mark around it and cut down with a chisel deep enough to allow the board to set down flush with the outside edge of the deck. This board is about 1-8" thick.

The amount of ballast which the boat will carry cannot be determined until the hull is hollowed out. It may then be floated in water, and sufficient lead put on board to bring her nearly down +o the waterline, this amount is then melted and moulded into the keel, which is fastened on with long screws, or small brass bolts, A small amount must be left to fasten inside to bring her to just the proper trim.

The lines as shown are rather fuller than in the actual boat, but this is necessary for a sailing model to enable her to carry her sail successfully. The spars are of straight grained spruce.

The sail plan as shown in Fig. 2 is drawn to scale and the lengths of the several lines can be scaled directly. The mast is placed 18" back from the stem; it is 45" long above the deck, 3-4" diameter from deck to above the gaff, tapering to 1-4" at top. The boom is about 33" long, 3-8" diameter at each end, 5-8" diameter at the main sheet fastening, tapering towards the ends. The gaff is 20" long, and about 1-2" thick, with slightly oval shape; it should be fitted with a pair of jaws to fit against the mast, either of wood, or sheet brass bent to shape and tacked on. The bowsprit is 10" long outboard; and about, 5-8" diameter, tapering to 3-8" at the outer end. It is fastened to the deck by small straps of brass bent over it and screwed to the deck.

It is recommended that for the rigging fine brass wire be used. For the mast there should be three side stays, two leading from the point of attachment of the fore stay, and one from the topmast head; leading down to chain plates about 3-4" apart, which are made of narrow brass fastened to the hull with brass nails or screws. A very neat way of making these stays fast is to turn a loop about 1-8" diameter, so that it stands about 1-2" above the chain plates, then several strands of silk line are rove through both, making a good finish. At the top a loop is turned to fit over the mast and bear upon the head of a small screw or nail, to prevent slipping down. The forward stays are fastened by loops in the same manner, and are adjusted to the proper length and the slack taken out by lightening the side stays. The topmast stay leads out over a pair of spreaders about 10" long, which can be made by soldering a piece of wire on each side of a band and bringing the ends together and forming an eye for the stay, as in Fig. 3.

The bobstay is made of rather heavier wire and may well be double; its lower end is fastened to a brass strap. The bowsprit also has a side stay on each side, kept apart by a spreader of wire passing through the hull just aft of the stem. An eye in the end of the boom takes a corresponding eye in the mast and allows the boom to swing. To attach the main sheet, a small band of wire may be made around the boom.

The rudder has a metal stock 1-8" diameter, passing through a tube to make it water tight. It must be an easy fit and turn readily. The steering gear is as shown in Fig. 3. The double ended tiller is on the rudder head, pointing fore and aft; the aftermost eye takes the main sheet and the forward eye takes one end of a spiral spring. To the other end of the spring is attached the screw, about 1-8" diameter, which passes through the stop on the deck, and has a thumb nut by which the spring is extended more or less. In sailing, the rudder will be turned an amount varying with the pressure of the wind, and the amount of turn is regulated by the thumb nut. Definite dimensions cannot be given for these parts, as they depend upon the peculiarities of each boat, and can only be found by trial. This arrangement works very nicely when correctly adjusted.

The sails are of light cotton cloth, or still better, of linen. The after edges of mainsail should be selvage edges and the other edges of all the sails should be neatly hemmed . The mainsail has rings which slide on the mast and is laced to boom and gaff. The stay-and jib are laced to the stays, and held up by halliards, while the club topsail and jib topsail are removable, The halliards for all the sails are fastened to small wire rings bent around the mast.

The mainsail will, of course adjust itself from side to side, but the head sails must be shifted when tacking, so chat a sheet is necessary on each side, leading around the fore stays, the leeward one being tightened. The sheets may be of small woven fish line and should lead through small staples driven into the deck far enough to cause an easy friction on the line and hold it at any point.

The rigging as outlined is for a model for sailing; if one is wanted for exhibition it can be made more ornamental, with blocks more pretentious rigging according to the desires and skill of the builder.