In using a standard commercial pattern on which the seam allowance is made, the material should be cut close to the edge of the pattern. In using a modeled pattern, the material may be cut at the correct distance from the seam markings, a tapeline or cardboard measure being used to indicate the distance until the eye becomes trained. If tailor tacking has been used, the two pieces of the pattern should be pulled apart, and the threads cut, care being taken not to shake the parts of the garment and thus lose the marking threads. As soon as the various parts are cut, they are folded carefully to prevent stretching the very bias edges. When working on material that stretches badly, it is often a good plan to baste a piece of selvage or tape along the more bias edges, until that part is permanently sewed. This is true of the neck-line and arm-hole of the waist, and also of the center back and the waistline of the skirt.

ig. 75. - Method of decreasing the size of the hips of a gored skirt pattern without decreasing the size of the waist.