For portieres hung from a pole by rings, the space to be covered by the hanging finished is that from the bottom of the pole to within 2 inches of the floor. This space is required in the interest both of cleanliness and appearance. For portieres with a run for the rod, with or without heading, allowance must be made as for curtains. Portieres often require lining, in which case 3 inches in addition to the length when finished should be allowed. Some materials "crawl" in use, but most fabrics that are used for portieres are heavy and tend to sag.

Making draperies. Curtains.

Before cutting, the material should be studied carefully to see whether there is any up and down, right and wrong side, or matching of figures to be considered.

When possible one should cut by thread. In the case of some cheap printed goods, this is not practicable, but such curtains are likely to hang askew after they have been laundered.

In making curtains, a large table that one can walk around should be used.

Glass curtains and any curtains made of thin textiles or unlined may be finished at the top (1) with a hem or casing for the rod, (2) with a heading and a run for the rod below the hem, (3) with a hem and rings sewed on to the edge of the curtain or with rings sewed on to the line of the hem so that they are invisible. Curtains that are hung on rings are more easily moved back and forth; but if the curtains need frequent laundering, the rings may be troublesome.

Twice the diameter of the rod, or more, should be allowed for the width of the run or casing, to provide for shrinking and the easy adjustment of the curtains.

Thin curtains are better gathered or shirred.

Ample width for a heading in limp material is 1 1/2 inches; if the heading is wider, the folds lop over in an untidy way. Two inches is not too wide a heading if the curtains are of a firm material that stands up well.

For full length curtains for large windows, 3 inches is a good width for the hem at the bottom. For glass curtains or curtains of thin material, 2 inches is sufficient. The hem may be turned in its full width, thus making three thicknesses of material. In any case this gives firmness and weight that makes the curtain hang well, and in the case of washable curtains furnishes an opportunity to counteract the effect of shrinkage. Hemstitching or fagoting is an excellent finish for scrim or marquisette, and it gives a touch of distinction to the curtain.

Curtains of chintz and some other materials may be turned up on the right side, and an edge of gimp or a narrow fringe may be sewed on. Attractive edgings for chintz are obtainable, and when chintz curtains are used in living or other family rooms, these gimps make an effective finish. In this case, the width of the gimp is enough to allow at the bottom for making. In general, the hemstitching or other finish of a curtain begins at the top of the inside of the curtain and continues across the lower edge. There is no reason why it should not be continued up the outside edge, thus making the edges reversible.

Draperies for doors are made in the same general way as those for windows. They are often of heavy material and are sometimes lined. The purpose of the lining is often to furnish a contrasting hanging for the room on the other side. When the rod is fastened to the door jamb as high as possible, the run for the hanging may conveniently be made at the top. If a heading is desired, the rod should be placed lower. When portieres are hung on the outside of the trim, a heading may be used or not.

Portieres may be hung by rings, or by hooks. A French heading, with French hooks, may be used on a portiere that is to be hung on the trim. The French heading is made by taking up three tucks or plaits which may be 3/4 inch in depth, or more if the material is heavy. The plaits should be stitched across 2 1/2 or 3 inches from the top. The French hook is attached at the bottom of the heading. The hook then fastens into the ring which fits the rod.