"Work in the Pleasure Garden - How to Prune Roses - The Greenhouse and Conservatory - The Stove - Work in the Kitchen Garden - Fruit and Vegetables Under Glass

The last days of February will see the end of the quiet season out of doors. With the advent of March, growth and activity begin to be visible in all directions.

The Lawn The lawn will again need cutting, and should be rolled beforehand in each case. Where bare patches are visible, the ground should be well scratched up with a rake, and seed scattered evenly at the rate of one pound to sixteen square yards, covering lightly with sifted soil, and pressing in with the roller afterwards. A network of black cotton should be stretched across on small sticks to prevent the ravages of birds. The same should be done in the case of crocuses in bloom this month. Herbaceous borders may be made or replanted in the way described in " November Work," on page 140. Well - established perennials will benefit by a dressing of old manure, forked lightly in. Be careful not to disturb any late-planted bulbs in doing this.

Lime or soot may be sprinkled around the crowns of plants, as either will prove a slight preventive against slugs, etc., which will now begin to be active. The preparation called Slugene may be lightly forked in on the surface.

Forced bulbs which have finished flowering can be planted out, leaving the foliage to wither naturally.

The present is the best time to divide the everlasting pea (lathyrus latifolius) if it has grown to considerable size. White Pearl is an improvement on the old pink variety. Lupins and larkspurs, as well as a large proportion of more delicate herbaceous plants, are better planted now than in

October, if the soil is naturally cold and wet.

Nemesia grandiflora, in mixed colours, a charming half hardy annual which may be sown in March

Nemesia grandiflora, in mixed colours, a charming half-hardy annual which may be sown in March

Copyright, J. Murray &• Sons

Hardy annuals are sown this month, and will be found useful in filling spaces among the permanent plants.

How to Prune Roses

Roses growing on a south border may be pruned during the early part of the month, but the bulk of the pruning should be left until the 25th at least, by which date the danger of very severe frosts should be over.

Tea roses are not pruned until three weeks later than the more robust varieties.

In pruning roses the following simple rules should be observed. After removing dead wood, cut out also all weak and useless twigs. Then cut down all such old stems as are not bearing strong young growths, almost to the ground. This will give the plant more light and air. Now shorten the shoots, cutting back those varieties which appear weak, to two buds only from the base, medium growers to a third of their length, and very strong specimens to one-half only.

The cuts should be made with a sharp knife in an outward direction, just above an eye and at as short a slant as possible. These directions apply to all ordinary bush and standard roses. The planting of roses may also be done during the present month.

The Conservatory

Zonal pelargoniums should now be making a good show, also cinerarias and primulas. Forced shrubs should be a special feature, notably Paul's double scarlet thorn, as well as azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, etc.