The necessary measurements for drafting the bodice are :
1. Chest (see Fig. I).
2. Waist (see Fig. I).
3. Length of back (see Fig. 2).
4. Half width of back (see Fig. 2).
5. Half neck (see Figs. 1 and 2).
6. Length of front (see Fig. 1).
I. Place a tape measure round the figure well up under the arms. See that it is straight across the back, and bring it round to the front across the chest (see Fig. 1), holding it rather loosely, and write down half the measurement - e.g., if the round chest measure is 36 inches, write 18.
2. Without removing the tape measure from round the figure, slip it down to the waist, and write down half the waist measure (see Fig. 1).
3. Before taking this measure tie a string round the waist of the figure, bring it well down into position all round, and measure the length of back from the nape of the neck to the string. Write down the length (see Fig. 2).
4. This measure - half width of back - is taken from the middle of the back to the armhole (see Fig. 2).
N.B. - Before taking this see that the back seam or fastening of the bodice (over which it is being taken) is perfectly straight, and that the back is neither too wide nor too narrow.
If preferred, the width of the entire back - from armhole to armhole - can be taken, but only the half width must be written down.
6. The length of front is taken from the hollow of the neck to the string at the waist (see Fig. 1). Write down this measure.
N.B. - The person being measured must stand perfectly erect, or the front length of the bodice pattern will be found too short.
Requisites for Drafting
A sheet of brown paper.
A tailor's square or rule.
A tape measure.
Plan Lines for Drafting a Bodice Pattern (Diagram i)
Open the sheet of paper, place the square on it, and draw the back line by the long arm, and the neck line by the short arm, as shown on the diagram.
From the neck line measure and mark on the back line the length of back (measure No. 3), square the rule, and draw a long line for the waist line.
From the waist line measure and make a mark at the half of the back line, square the rule, and draw a long line for the chest line. This line also denotes the height of the underarm, which, in proportionate figures, is half the length of back.
A high-shouldered figure would measure rather more than half the length of the back for the height of the underarm.
Diagram I. Plan lines for drafting a bodice pattern
From the neck line measure 1 1/2 or 2 inches* down the back line, make a mark, and about 3 inches below it make another mark, square the rule, and draw two short lines for the back shoulder and back arm-hole lines.
* N.b. - This measure varies according to the individual figure. The back shoulder line requires to be drawn nearer the neck line when the figure is high-shouldered than for one with sloping shoulders.
To Draft the Bodice Pattern (Diagram a)
From the back line measure on the waist line 1 inch inwards, and make a mark. From it draw with the square a sloping line to the neck line, for the true back line, as shown in Diagram 2.
From the back line measure on the neck line one-third of the half neck measure (No. 5), less one-eighth of an inch*, and make a mark, and from it draw a straight line three-quarters of an inch long. Then draw a curving line backwards on to the neck line (as per Diagram 2) for the back neck.
* N.b. - The one-eighth of an inch is deducted from the third of the half neck measure, because the curved line will measure one-eighth of an inch more than a straight line would do.
From the true back line measure on the back armhole line, the half width of back (measure No. 4), plus half an inch, and make a mark. From it draw a straight line to the shoulder line for a plan line for the back armhole.
From the shoulder line draw a line to the highest point of the neck for the back shoulder. Slightly curve this line inwards, as shown on Diagram 2.
From the true back line measure on the chest line the half chest measure (No. 1), plus 1 inch, and make a mark. This mark denotes the front of chest, and the width of the half of the bodice.
From the back line, measure along the neck line about two and a half inches less than on the chest line, and make a mark. From this mark draw with the rule a long, sloping line through the mark denoting the front of chest, down the front to the waist line (see Diagram 2), for the front line of the bodice.
From the waist line, measure on the front line one and a half inches, and make a mark. From it draw a sloping line (about 5 inches long) to touch the waist line. (See Diagram.)
This gives the true waist line. From this true waist line measure along the front line the length of front (No. 6), and make a mark.
This mark denotes the position for the hollow of the front neck.
From this front neck mark, measure and mark one-third of the half neck (No. 5), and from it draw a short, straight line to the left. From the mark for the hollow of the front neck, draw a slanting line (measuring two-thirds of the half neck, less a quarter of an inch*) to touch the short line ; then draw the curved line for the front neck, as on the diagram.