* N.b. - The quarter of an inch is deducted from the two-thirds of the half neck measure, because the curved line will measure a quarter of an inch more than the straight line.
From the highest point of the back neck, measure the distance to the shoulder line; measure the same length from the highest point of the front neck, make a mark, and from it draw a short plan line to the left.
Measure the length of the back shoulder, and draw a line the same length from the highest point of the front neck, to touch the short plan line. Very slightly curve this line outwards for the front shoulder.
From the lowest point of the front shoulder draw a line curving down to the chest line, and then curving up to touch the centre of the plan line of the back armhole, and on to about a quarter of an inch* beyond the back shoulder, as shown in the diagram. Lengthen the back shoulder to touch the end of the curve.
* N.b. - The back shoulder is drawn a quarter of an inch longer than the front shoulder, because, when the bodice is being made up, the front shoulder should be stretched to fit into the back, so that it may set smoothly over the shoulder.
Make a mark at the centre of the back shoulder, and another mark on the waist line, one and a half inches or more (according to the figure), from the true back line.
With the square, draw a slanting line from one mark to the other. This gives the back piece.
From the back piece measure i inch on the chest line, make a mark, and with the rule draw a line from the waist, passing through this mark, to meet the line of the back piece at the shoulder. Measure the width of the back piece at the chest line, and mark the same width for the side body, and the same width for the side piece.
On the waist line measure and mark the side body, I inch less (more or less, according to the figure) than it measures on the chest line, and draw a line from the waist to the armhole to complete the side body.
On the waist line measure I inch (more or less) between the side body and side piece, make a mark, and draw a line to meet the side body at the armhole.
On the waist line, measure and mark the side piece, I inch less (more or less) than it is on the chest line. Draw a line from waist to armhole to complete the side piece.
On the waist line measure 2 inches (more or less) from the side piece, make a mark, and from it draw a line to meet the side piece at the armhole.
This line gives the side of the front.
Commence from the true back line and measure the back, the side body, the side piece, and the front, as far as the front line of the bodice, omitting the space between each piece. Write down the result of the measuring up, on the paper, and deduct from it the half waist measure (No. 2). The surplus amount will have to be taken out in the seam of the front - e.g., if the measurement of the pattern is 15 inches on the waist line, and the half waist measure is 12 inches, deduct that amount from the 15 inches, and take out the surplus (3 inches) in the seam of the front.
To draw the seam of the front, make a mark at the centre of the front shoulder line, and another mark on the true waist line one and a half inches from the front. From this mark measure the amount to be taken out in the seam of the front, and make another mark.
Make a mark on the chest line 3 inches (more or less, according to the figure) from the front. From it, measure 1 inch below the chest line, and from it draw a sloping line to touch the front line, as shown in the diagram.
From the ends of this sloping line draw a line to the mark on the centre of the front shoulder, and again from the end of the line draw a line to each of the marks on the waist line.
N.B. - If the length of these two lines does not correspond (it depends upon the amount taken out between them to reduce the waist) the back line of the seam must be extended below the waist line to the necessary length, to correspond with the front line of the seam, and a sloping line, drawn to touch the fitting seam, for the corrected waist line.
From the end of the sloping line, curve the back of the seam of the front very slightly up to the shoulder, so as to round off the point where the four lines meet.
N.B. - Some dressmakers prefer the front line of the bodice to be rounded. Tailors, however, usually prefer it straight, and, when they are obliged to round the front line to suit any special figure, they shrink away the superfluous length (caused by the rounded line) in the material, when making up the bodice.
The plan lines are dotted, therefore cut out each piece (five in all) of the bodice on the outline of the pattern (not the plan lines). The pattern is drafted without turnings, so they must be allowed for everywhere, when cutting out the lining and material, according to the instructions already given in the Dressmaking and Tailoring lessons.
When placing the pattern on the material, the front line must always be placed down the straight (selvedgewise) and the side of the front parallel to it at the top, thus bringing the waist on the cross.
N.B. - The position in which they are drafted is only for convenience.
The back, side body, and side piece must all be placed with the waist line on the straight as they are shown drafted in the diagram.