Fold a sheet of paper in half, and measure down the fold the length required for the skirt, plus half an inch for the slope at the top. Cut off the paper to this length. From the fold, measure 3 inches at one end and make a mark, and 4 1/2 inches at the other end, and make another mark. With a rule, draw a line from one to the other, cut through the double paper on this line. From the narrowest end, measure down the fold half an inch, make a mark, and from it draw a slightly curving line to the edge of the paper, cut through this line, which gives the slope for the top and completes the front width. (See Diagram 4.)
Measure along the top edge of a sheet of paper 12 inches (more or less according to the waist measurement), and make a mark, and measure down the side of the paper and make another mark. From it draw a curving line to the first mark for the " curve for the waist," as shown in Diagram 5. From the curve measure down the paper 24 inches (or the length the skirt is to be made), and make another mark.
Take a tape measure and a piece of chalk.
and follow the directions given in Vol. 1, page 638, for drawing the bottom line! From the edge of the paper measure on the line just drawn for the bottom 31 1/2- inches, make a mark, and from it draw a line to the curve at the top for the " back line." This piece can now be cut out on the lines. This pattern is for a skirt measuring 2 yards round the bottom, which is a practical width for a bathing dress.
The most economical way to cut out the material, is to commence with the largest piece. Open the alpaca and place it single on the table, wrong side uppermost. Place and pin the pattern of the side and back gore with the bottom, 1 1/2 inches from the cut edge and the side, straight along, and 1 1/2 inches from the selvedge; outline the pattern all round with chalk, and cut it out, allowing half an inch for turning at the "curve for waist," and 1 1/2 inches on each side and at the bottom
Unpin the pattern, place and pin the piece just cut out along the opposite selvedge of the alpaca, with the wrong sides facing, and the bottom as far down as it will fit into the sloped piece left over from the first gore, then cut it out.
N.B. - Unless these two pieces " face," the gores will both be cut for the same side of the skirt.
Place and pin the pattern of the front lengthwise on the alpaca, being careful that the centre-front is perfectly on the straight; outline it and cut it out, allowing half an inch for turning, at the top, and one and a half inches on each side, and at the bottom.
Open the pattern, place and pin it lengthwise on the alpaca, outline and cut it out, allowing a quarter inch for turning round the neck, and down the fronts, half an inch at the under-arm, the seam of the sleeve, and at the waist, and one inch at the bottom of the sleeves.
Place and pin the pattern (open) of the shaped piece for the neck on the alpaca, being careful that the crease in the pattern (at the centre-back) is parallel to the selvedge, and perfectly straight. Outline and cut it out, allowing quarter-inch turnings all round.
To Cut: Out the Silk Knickers
Fold the length of silk in half, the two cut edges together, place and pin the pattern on it, the bottom of the leg half an inch from, and parallel to, the cut edge, and the back within half an inch from the selvedge, and cut it out through the two folds of silk, allowing half an iach for turning.
As the silk is not wide enough to cut the whole of the leg in one piece, it must be joined down the selvedge.
Pin the selvedges of the remaining length of (double) silk about half an inch over those of the piece just cut (to allow for the seam), and cut out the remainder of the knickers, allowing half an inch for turnings.
Diagram 2. The shaped piece for the neck as it should appear when cut out
To Cut Out the "Revers"
Place and pin the longest straight edge of the pattern down one of the stripes of the silk, and cut it out, allowing half-inch turnings all round.
N.B. - The stripes on the silk should run in the same direction as the lines on the paper pattern.
The waistband and the trimming for the sleeves are merely straight pieces cut about 3 inches wide, across the silk, so that the stripes may run downwards, and half-inch turnings are allowed for on each side, so that the bands will be about 2 inches in width when finished.
Pin and tack the two seams on the right side, as " French seams " are the most suitable for this dress. Try it on, and if there is too much fulness in the back, take it in at the back, under arm-seam. Stitch the seams. Cut some strips of the silk on the cross about three-quarters of an inch wide, fold, and tack them double. Tack one of these folds round the neck on the inside of the bodice (the raw edges level with the raw edge of the neck) as far round as the shaped piece is to reach.
Diagram 3. How to cut and measure for the pattern of the knickers, which are suited for an average size figure, but can be easily altered
Run it neatly round the neck about a quarter of an inch from the folded edge, remove the tacking, and turn the fold of silk up round the neck, and tack the raw edges firmly down to the right side of the bodice.
N.B. - The knots of the tacking must be on the inside of the bodice, or they cannot be taken out when the neck is finished.