This section is from the book "The Complete Cook", by J. M. Sanderson. Also available from Amazon: The Complete Cook.
We now come to a very important, because a very difficult, branch of the art of baking, whether exercised as a profession, or by private individuals, namely the manufacturing of what are technically called "fancy goods." The reader scarcely need be informed, that this term includes all those varieties of baked manufactured eatables, in which such ingredients as sugar, eggs, spice, and butter, are used, with many other not necessary to enumerate here.
It ought to be observed, that the following directions for making the kind of goods alluded to, have been all tested, and found to be so exceedingly accurate as to proportions, that a deviation in a quantity so small as an egg, or even half an egg, will deteriorate the quality of the article. These directions are not generally known in the trade, and out of the trade they are entirely, we believe, unknown. They will be found, therefore, a valuable acquisition to those ladies who manage their own domestic affairs, and who are in the habit of making little knick-knacks for their children, or their dessert tables.
Previous to giving the directions in question, it will be necessary for our readers to be made acquainted with the mode of preparing certain articles, which are more or less employed in the manufacturing fancy goods. We are aware that there are many private individuals who would object to use the preparation called "honey-water," as well as that called " prepared treacle," on the ground of their consisting chiefly of drugs. As regards, however, the use of carbonate of ammonia (honey-water), it may be safely affirmed, that there is, in small quantities, nothing unhealthy in it, but on the contrary. The truth however is, the carbonate of ammonia used in biscuits, etc., is volatilized by the heat of baking, and of course it all escapes. Its operation is therefore mechanical, and the only effect it has upon the biscuit is to make it light.
With regard to the article called prepared treacle, which consists of treacle, alum, and pearlash, we have to observe, that alum taken in considerable quantities is decidedly unwholesome, it being of a powerfully astringent nature; but in the very small quantity here prescribed, and considering that treacle is an asperient, and will con-^equently counteract the effects of the alum, we should say, that there can be no harm in using it. Pearlash, being an alkali, we should consider rather beneficial than otherwise, as it would prevent the treacle of the ginger-bread turning acid on the stomach.
Having made these preliminary observations, we shall at once proceed to give directions for making those preparations used in pastry and fancy goods. The break alluded to in making fancy biscuits, is an instrument similar to that used in manufacturing ship-biscuits, but of course of much smaller dimensions.
 
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