This section is from the book "Entrees", by S. Beaty-Pownall. Also available from Amazon: Entrées.
Veal can be filleted like both beef or mutton, i.e. you can have cutlets of veal cut from the best end of the neck exactly as with mutton, and excellent these are! Or, again, you can use the filet or undercut, or the fillet (in other words, the round), precisely as you would beef. The noisette is usually cut from the cushion or fillet, as may be also the escalopes, though these latter are more often cut in long-narrow strips from the loin. Any of these forms of veal may be served broiled, stewed, braised, sautes, or in cases. Veal in these small portions is . almost invariably either barded or larded, i.e., it is either wrapped in thin slices of fat or larding bacon, or it is larded with tiny lardoons passed through the surface of the meat, as shown for grenadins, or passed straight through from side to side. Owing to the dryness of this meat it requires basting frequently, and should also at the last be brushed over with glaze and set in the oven for a minute or two to crisp this and also the lardoons, which, needless to say, should have been neatly trimmed.
For fillets of fowl, you should take off the whole breast on each side of the breastbone, right down to the wing joint, and then slice this neatly, according to the thickness and the size you wish your fillets to be. The best way to manage this is to slit the skin of the bird right along the breastbone down to the neck, turning this skin well back as you do so; slip the blade of the knife (which should be a pointed one) close down the breastbone on each side, free the meat from the merrythought, then lift the flesh from the breast to the base of the wing, of course keeping the knife close to the bone so that you can lift the meat off on each side in a solid piece thicker at one end than the other. Place each piece flat on a board, skinned side uppermost, then divide it lengthways into slices as nearly even in size and thickness as you can manage; a good large fowl should yield about six of these slices from each side of the breast. These fillets should be batted out precisely like cutlets (being careful not to bat them too heavily, or you will mash and consequently spoil them), and then pressed and trimmed with a wetted knife, rounding the broad and pointing the narrow ends to give them a cutlet shape.
To cook these fillets they are generally laid on a well buttered baking dish lightly sprinkled with strained lemon juice and a very little white stock, then covered with a buttered paper and cooked from eight to ten minutes according to thickness, in a fairly hot oven. Fillets thus prepared can be used for all sorts of dishes, especially for the well-known (but seldom seen) Supreme de Volaille. This latter dish, though a very recherche one, is not so expensive as it sounds, as the legs can be grilled and devilled or else boned, stuffed with any delicate forced meat and braised, then served as Ballotines de Volaille (a very high class and delicate little entree) on a bed of nicely mashed potatoes, chicken farce, or mushroom puree, as you please; the rest of the flesh carefully picked from the bones and finely chopped, answers capitally for quenelles, souffle's, etc, whilst the bones will serve as a foundation for the Supreme sauce, or can be utilised in the stock pot, so that no part of the fowl is wasted. Any bird, game or otherwise, can be used in the same way.
For lesser birds, such as pigeons, quails, etc., two other recipes are also followed.
For the first, usually known as cutlets, the birds are boned (with the exception of the feet and leg bones), halved, seasoned to taste with pepper, salt, and mushrooms, chives, herbs, or spice according to the use they are to be put to, then fried or sautes in plenty of butter from three to five minutes, after which they are placed between two plates lightly weighted, and then left till cold. They are then masked with a layer of suitable farce, carefully smoothed over with a hot wet knife, brushed over with unbeaten white of egg, wrapped neatly in a piece of pork caul, again brushed over with white of egg, and cooked in a buttered baking dish under a buttered paper in a moderate oven for twelve or fifteen minutes, according to the size of the bird. Many cooks, after spreading these cutlets with the farce, dip them into whole beaten up egg, then into freshly grated and very white bread crumbs, and fry them in plenty of clean boiling fat till of a delicate golden brown; they can then be served with any garnish or sauce to taste.
The other method of using the smaller birds when they are boned, stuffed, cooked, pressed, and sliced is only adapted for chaufroix, and will be given under that heading.
Hares and rabbits can be filleted by cutting out the strip of meat lying alongside the backbone on both sides exactly as described for filleting fowls, and if well larded these make a very pretty dish, whether served in rounds as Grenadins or Medaillons or in long narrow strips as Filets or escalopes. The little under fillet, answering to the sirloin in beef, to be found under the ribs of both hare and rabbit, and known in France as filets mignons, is superior to the fillet proper, but is unluckily as diminutive as it is dainty.
All fillets or cutlets made from brown meat, whether flesh, or fowl, can be marinaded, and this when the meat is dry, as it is especially with hares and venison, will be found a great improvement. For beef the commonest form of marinade is that previously given for mutton cutlets, and is made with four parts of salad oil to one of vinegar, with the addition of a small shallot or onion sliced, a bay leaf, four or five cloves, eight or ten peppercorns, a saltspoonful of salt, a good strip of thinly pared lemon rind, and a spray or two of parsley and thyme, or marjoram, to every gill of salad oil; needless to say this can be varied by changing the proportions of the herbs and spice. A very nice marinade for giving a venison taste to mutton can be prepared as below (but for this the meat, which can also be hare if preferred, should have been previously roasted, rather underdone, and allowed to get perfectly cold): put into a dish a gill each of good malt vinegar, port wine, and mushroom ketchup, in which you have previously dissolved a good spoonful of red currant or rowan jelly, with a teaspoonful of quatre Spices or cook's pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, five or six peppercorns, a sliced onion, and about a dessertspoonful of minced thyme and parsley (cold cooked meat needs only a few hours steeping, but if raw should be left in all day). This marinade is strained and added to the thick brown sauce in which the meat is to be heated; it is then boiled up sharply all together till reduced a fourth part, when the meat is laid in and allowed to heat (not boil) very gently in the bain-marie; then, if served round a mound of French beans with its sauce, it forms a decidedly excellent entree, though it belongs properly to the rechauffes.
 
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